Toronto Star

Zealous praise for zingy Pinot Gris from New Zealand

Cool-climate punch and a mineral intensity make this a good choice for the Wines to Chill section

- GORD STIMMELL WINE CRITIC

While New Zealand is synonymous with Burgundy-style Pinot Noirs and rapierwitt­ed Sauvignon Blancs, it does produce some big reds and fine Chardonnay, Pinot Blancs and Pinot Gris.

So give the Seresin Momo Pinot Gris a shot (bottle review). It’s got that coolclimat­e zing to it and a mineral intensity. It’s in a special Wines to Chill section in your Vintages catalogue. Good choice!

Pinot Gris varies from country to coun- try. The Momo reminds me of Oregon Pinot Gris with its whiffy-clean followthro­ugh. I also adore Gris from Alsace, where steep slate slopes and long fermentati­ons can give it the unctuousne­ss and rich swirl of orchard fruits.

Also in the Wines to Chill is Morando 2014 Moscato D’Asti (#420844, $14.95, 90). It is sweet, yes, but so delicious with its honeysuckl­e and peach flavours that it is forgivable. The style is frizzante (in French, pétillant) with teeny-tiny bubbles you feel more than see, and the alco- hol is an amazingly low 5 per cent. Think cheese tray and dining outdoors.

Just a note to you Rhône Rangers out there: The Stump Jump White I extol is only part Marsanne and Roussanne grapes, plus riesling and Sauvignon Blanc. Leave it to those Aussies to be irreverent in their blends. They do not hold French wine law in high regard.

My luxury choice of the day is Mt. Brave Cabernet, (see bottle review) an exotic blend of mainly cab sauv with a kiss of Merlot and cab franc. This is part of the famed Jess Jackson stable of reds and is made by Chris Carpenter, who also makes legendary Lokoya Cabs.

This monumental red is a tribute to the memory of Jackson, who passed away in 2011.

I nurture a fond memory of flying in Jackson’s private helicopter between his Sonoma and super-premium Napa wineries and looking down on Madonna’s mansion nestled below us in the Mayacamas Mountains. stimmell@sympatico.ca

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