Readers ask about driveways, a fireplace and insulation,
Hiring a contractor can feel like a blind date — there’s no guarantee the experience will go the way you dreamed it might. “You should watch closely for any red flags when looking for a contractor,” says Bryan Baeumler. “Use some common sense: look for proof that they’re experienced in the type of work you need, see if they’ve got good references and make sure you can trust them. Good contractors will usually answer most of your questions before you even ask them.” But if you’ve been left high and dry by a bad contractor, all is not lost. The host of HGTV’s House of Bryanand Leave it to Bryancan walk you through cleaning up a job, no matter how sloppy. Here, he answers Star readers’ questions on buckled driveways, fireplace updates and insulating an older brick home.
Hi, Bryan. I had a new driveway and stone border installed last spring. This winter, the asphalt closest to the garage floor heaved leaving water and ice to accumulate in the garage. When I called the company who installed the driveway, they just said it wouldn’t happen again. I am not confident about that answer. I’ve been told they didn’t lay enough stone under that area before they installed the asphalt. I suspect next year I will have the same problem. Any suggestions?
Wendy G., Toronto
Hi, Wendy. Last winter was a beast — we saw a lot of properly installed footings and slabs move around because the frost penetrated so deep. That being said, there should be at least eight-to-10 inches of crushed, well-compacted gravel beneath your driveway to provide a solid base for the asphalt, and drainage to reduce frost heave. You also may want to check your garage slab which should be slightly sloped out into the driveway to prevent water from running into the garage.
My suggestion would be to refer to your warranty and discuss the issue with the installer. Keep a comprehensive record of your concerns and communications. My guess is that it’s in the best interests of an established company to provide a quality product and service within reason. Good luck. Hi, Bryan. We renovated our1958 kitchen 20 years ago. The washing machine, sink and dryer were relocated to our basement. About two years later, inside the wall where they stood, we found a pipe capped at the bottom — but giving off condensation. We think this pipe is the original venting stack for the laundry sink. Every two months or so, I collect about 500 mL of water. It would be very difficult to remove the pipe, but is
there a proper way to cap the stack and prevent water from coming in? Also, how can I make sure doing so won’t cause other problems?
Chris H., Don Mills
Hey, Chris. I’ve seen this before — an abandoned vent or stack that wasn’t capped on the roof, and now you’ve got rain finding its way into your walls. In addition to rain, you’re also going to get condensation — warm, moist air from your house will head up that pipe until it finds the cold, condense and run back down the pipe. Without being connected to a drain, it’s got nowhere to go but in your walls.
Before you just cap the bottom of the pipe and let it fill up, or start capping vents on the roof, I’d call in a plumber to scope the drains and vents. If that pipe is an abandoned stack, it could be easily capped on the roof. If it’s a vent that connects to your current stack, you may have to poke a few holes here and there to disconnect it. The only way to tell is to get a look inside your walls and see where it goes. We know a few reputable plumbers — you can find them at baeumlerapproved.com. Hi, Bryan. We have a 1952 East York bungalow with a large woodburning fireplace we’d like to update. We want to paint out the wood, replace the floor tile and update the cement surround. Do you have any recommendations on tile/stone we could use that would be heat resistant and would not show soot stains? Also, any preparation recommendations to ensure a safe installation?
Michael and Jacqueline D., Toronto
Hi, Michael and Jacqueline. I’m a big fan of wood fireplaces; however, there are some special safety considerations for masonry fireplaces (as opposed to more modern, zero clearance units).
Your hearthstone should extend at least 20 inches from the face of the fireplace and eight inches on either side of the opening. Your best bet is to take the measurements and consult with your local building and planning department. Any noncombustible material would be suitable to cover the existing concrete surround such as new stone veneer or tile.
Once you start messing with a masonry firebox and removing components, you’re asking for trouble. The one thing that concerns me is the soot stains above your fireplace opening — that’s an indication that you’re not getting enough combustible air and a good draw. I’d recommend getting your fireplace inspected by a WETT-certified inspector to be sure you have a sufficient air supply into the firebox, and that the entire unit is still safe. We own an almost 60-year-old double brick bungalow that is not well insulated. The walls of the north-facing bedrooms are very cold in the winter. Sometimes there is visible condensation over the drywall nails. Replacing the interior walls is too much work and expense, so I was thinking of having a foamed concrete product pumped into the walls. I found good reviews online, but became concerned when I found out they were not just going to fill the air gap between the inner and outer brick walls — they were also going to drill into the inner blocks and fill them with foamed concrete, as well as the walls. That’s lot of holes in the outer brick. What’s your take on this?
Thomas H., Scarborough
Hi, Thomas. I’ll be honest with you — save your money. I’ve seen a lot of retrofit foam installations and I’ve yet to see an effective one. The best way to insulate an old home is to either install EIFS (exterior insulation finishing system), such as a stucco or siding over foam, or to remove the plaster/drywall, reframe and in- sulate the walls properly.
The problem with drilling and poking into walls is that you can’t see behind the walls. In most old homes, you’re lucky to have one inch between the back of the plaster and the inside of the brick. That’s just not enough space to insulate and vapour seal. Not to mention, drilling holes all over your home’s foundation could compromise its integrity. I’d recommend getting some pricing on opening up your interior walls (especially the north walls), insulate them properly from the inside and refinish them in drywall.