Ontario producers seek bigger share of booming market,
Despite a growing number of brewers, local ciders account for less than 10 per cent of the province’s consumption
As the bounty of Ontario’s apple crop is harvested, there are few better ways to celebrate than by raising a glass of local cider. And no, we’re not talking the cloudy, murky brownish-tinged juice that you’ll find in the grocery store. Instead, it’s cider for grown-ups, the kind you can sip a pint (or three) of at a pub, or pair at dinner with a nice pork roast.
With cider one of the fastest-growing categories at the LCBO, it’s perhaps not surprising that there are more local producers rising up to meet the demand. Already, since its founding three years ago, the Ontario Craft Cider Association (OCCA) has grown to 22 members, from just a handful at the beginning. According to OCCA chair Thomas Wilson, there’s plenty of room to grow.
“We’re still just scratching the surface. Ontario cider is less than 10 per cent of the cider market in this province right now,” said Wilson, who, along with his wife, Nicole, runs Caledon, Ont.-based Spirit Tree Cider. Although there still isn’t a distinct Ontario style of cider yet, the 100-mile diet is still helping push demand. That, and the fact that most of it is a lot more flavourful than mass-produced cider produced by beverage conglomerates. “People are looking for local,” Wilson said.
SPIRIT TREE
The flagship product of the best cider producer in the province is also the driest one of the bunch listed here. There’s a hint of funky, barnyard character on the nose, thanks to the use of a traditional English cider yeast. Though it’s not Spirit Tree’s boldest offering, it’s still very good. Price: $3.15/473 ml can, LCBO
POMMIES FARMHOUSE
Doesn’t have quite as much going on as Spirit Tree, but this is also a more-than-respectable offering. Rather dry, albeit without the funk of some more traditional pub-style ciders. Like Spirit Tree, Pommies is based in the nascent Ontario cider hotbed of Caledon. Price: $3.05/473 ml can, LCBO.
WAUPOOS
The easternmost cider on this list hails from foodie-friendly Prince Edward County. County Cider Co. produces several varieties of cider, including Waupoos, which is its biggest seller. It’s got a touch of funk and a dry finish, but won’t scare off cider newbies. Price: $13.35/4-pack, LCBO
BRICKWORKS BATCH 1904
Like a slightly-boozy apple juice. Very fruity, and more sweetness than anything else in this list. Nothing deeply wrong with it, just not terribly compelling. Their “501,” billed as a “semisweet,” actually has more depth to it. If you’ve been drinking one of those fruity Euro “ciders” that list water or sugar as the first ingredient, this would be a gentle transition into something better. Price: $3.10/473 ml can, LCBO
SHINY
A cider right from the heart of wine country. Nothing earth-shattering, but a decent gateway cider, much like the Brickworks offerings. A touch sweet, but not cloying. If only the cider were as colourful as the can. Price: $3.25, 473 mL can, LCBO