Toronto Star

Hard work getting to the bottom, but the experience is worthwhile

- ANNA JOHNSON THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK, ARIZ.— Nearly five million people visit Grand Canyon National Park each year, but many do not get far below its limestone rim. Even fewer head to the bottom. Why? The simple answer is: it’s hard. The hike down to the banks of the chalky green Colorado River, and especially back up, is challengin­g, even gruelling.

Even if you’ve trained on stair climbers and hills with a14-kilogram backpack, hiking the Grand Canyon will test your endurance and your ability to remain hydrated.

But the sweat and sore muscles are worth the experience as you gaze at the red-hued rock formations from the South Kaibab trail, cross the steel bridge over the fast-moving river and dip your hat in the cool waters of the Bright Angel Creek.

Here are some tips for making the most of your Grand Canyon hiking and camping experience: Plan ahead Trying to hike from the rim to the river (or farther) in one day is possible, but extremely difficult. Even in spring and fall, the blazing Arizona sun can quickly turn dangerous, even deadly. Signs around the park and on corridor trails warn visitors not to hike too far down in a day for a reason.

Planning ahead will allow you to reserve aspot at the Bright Angel Campground or the rustic Phantom Ranch lodge at the bottom.

For the campground, you should aim to get a backcountr­y camping permit several months in advance and plan to make reservatio­ns for Phantom Ranch even further in advance. Training for less pain Getting a permit and setting dates for the hike also will help with mapping out a training schedule so you can spend more time enjoying the hike instead of suffering through it.

If you have access to hiking trails, particular­ly in hilly locations, start walking there as soon as possible. On average, hiking down South Kaibab and up Bright Angel (the most common route) takes four to six hours down and five to eight hours back up. And if you’re camping at the bottom, you will need to carry all of your equipment with you, so do some training while wearing a 10 to 14kilogram backpack.

Other good options are stair-climbing machines. Take your time and hydrate Though your adrenalin will be pumping as you descend the switchback­s of the South Kaibab trail, stop every so often to soak it in and take some photos. The views on this trail are magnificen­t, but the excitement of getting to the bottom can propel you too quickly. On the way back up, remember slow and steady is the way to go. Though you’ll be tired, you should pause not only to get your camera out but to eat and drink. And don’t dismiss the first few kilometres of the Bright Angel trail, which is fairly level along the Colorado River. This part has its own rugged beauty but can be overlooked in the eagerness to get to the top.

Both South Kaibab and Bright Angel have natural stopping points, including some where the parks service has installed bathrooms, and on Bright Angel, potable water (there is no water on South Kaibab). Take breaks about once an hour, eat salty foods such as nuts and jerky and drink water and electrolyt­e drinks. Another rest tip: elevate your feet each time you take a break to give them a rest and reduce inflammati­on. Pack only what you need You must pack essentials like enough food and water, along with a widebrimme­d hat, but don’t overload your backpack.

You can weigh your pack at the national park’s Backcountr­y Informatio­n Center on the South Rim before you head off. Aim for about 9 to 13.6 kilograms.

Water will likely be the heaviest thing you carry. Aim to bring all the water you need for the hike down — South Kaibab doesn’t have any water and your next water stop will be at the Bright Angel Campground. On the way up, there is a shady resting area at Indian Gardens, which also has water year-round. If you do the hike in the warmer months, there’s water every 2.4 kilometres beginning at Indian Gardens on your way up. But it also will be incredibly hot — 32 C or more — in the late spring, summer and early fall, so consider doing this type of hike in the cooler months. Unwind and have fun Chat with fellow hikers at rest stops, soak your tired feet in the crisp Bright Angel Creek after setting up camp and unwind at the canteen at Phantom Ranch after dark while writing postcards (the cards travel by mule to the top), playing cards and drinking a beer (the canteen sells beer, wine, other beverages and snacks). Though strenuous, the Grand Canyon experience has plenty of opportunit­ies to relax and most importantl­y, have fun.

 ?? ANNA JOHNSON/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? A group makes its way along a ridgeline on the Grand Canyon National Park’s South Kaibab trail. Hiking to the canyon floor can take four to six hours.
ANNA JOHNSON/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS A group makes its way along a ridgeline on the Grand Canyon National Park’s South Kaibab trail. Hiking to the canyon floor can take four to six hours.
 ?? ANNA JOHNSON PHOTOS/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? Hiking up Bright Angel trail, after descending along South Kaibab trail, can take five to eight hours.
ANNA JOHNSON PHOTOS/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Hiking up Bright Angel trail, after descending along South Kaibab trail, can take five to eight hours.
 ??  ?? Many hikers choose to stay overnight at either Bright Angel Campground or Phantom Ranch before hiking back out.
Many hikers choose to stay overnight at either Bright Angel Campground or Phantom Ranch before hiking back out.
 ??  ?? Make sure you don’t rush down the path and miss the spectacula­r view.
Make sure you don’t rush down the path and miss the spectacula­r view.

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