Wines for hot food trends
Yes, we know. It’s Chianti with pizza, Cabernet with grilled steak and Chablis with oysters. But what do you pour with mac ’n’ cheese, fish tacos or poutine? And what about dishes doused with Sriracha or peppered with pickled things?
Here are five footholds for any food and wine pairing.
Flavour matters
About 80 per cent of a wine’s flavour comes from its grape variety. These fundamental flavours naturally flatter certain foods, creating compatible couplings. Here is a cheat sheet: Cabernet Franc: raspberry Cabernet Sauvignon: black currant Merlot: cherries dunked in chocolate Syrah: red meat Shiraz: dark chocolate and black forest fruit Pinot Noir: cranberries and violet Zinfandel: blackberries Chardonnay, unoaked: apple, citrus, tropical fruit Pinot Grigio: lemon-lime Sauvignon Blanc: damp herbs, lime, gooseberry Riesling: lime and, sometimes, peach Now you know why Riesling goes well with pad thai, Pinot Noir is perfect with poultry and Syrah is a sure bet for beef.
Weight matters
Body matters more than colour when it comes to selecting the right bottle for a dish. Body is the wine’s weight in your mouth and corresponds closely with alcohol level. Light wines have less than about 12.5-per-cent alcohol, mediumbodied measures around 12.5 to 13.5 per cent, and more than that is full-bodied territory.
Naturally, lighter wines go best with gentler flavours and textures such as salads and fish, while full-bodied stand up to heavier, richer dishes such as roasted and sauced meats.
Acid matters
Acid is the technical term for tartness in wine. Acid makes you salivate, which is just what you want after a forkful of spicy or fatty fare to refresh your palate. Wines with high acidity also balance zippy foods such as lemony dressing, tomato sauce or pickled things.
Sweetness matters
This one is easy: Always make sure the wine is as sweet or sweeter than the dish you serve with it. If you don’t, the wine will taste too tart and off-balance. Sweet- ness also balances salt or spice, which is why cheese and dessert wine, or off-dry table wine with spicy Asian fare, work.
Tannin matters
Tannin is felt as a drying sensation around the gums, similar in mouth feel to walnut skins or strong black tea. It’s typically found in red wine because it comes from the grape skins and stalks used in red winemaking. What’s important to remember is this: Tannins and protein are a winning combination.
Wine tannins are attracted to proteins so, without getting too technical, a tannic wine may taste too tough on its own but will feel silky and full of fruit when sipped with meats or cheeses.
Word of caution though: Tannin reacts with iodine in fish and seafood, creating a metallic taste. So always pour low tannin reds such as Beaujolais or Pinot Noir with these foods, or play it safe and go with a white or rosé.
When to ignore the rules Though the rules may suggest, say, a red wine with steak, you don’t have to follow suit.
Maybe red wine isn’t your thing. Maybe you’re in the mood for a damply herbal Sauvignon Blanc with that sirloin, thinking it would set off the green peppercorn sauce.
Or maybe you are in a committed relationship of sorts with fuller-bodied whites and want to pour a special bottle of oaked Californian Chardonnay. Fabulous. Do it. It’s precisely this style of thinking that takes you further toward vinous nirvana than any hard and fast rule ever could.