Could you hummus a few bars?
Chefs sing new tune on dip,
We’ve messed up hummus.
It’s not supposed to be a cold, stiff dip eaten from a plastic tub with factory-shaped baby carrots or pretzels.
Hummus should be room temperature, smooth, creamy, rich and satisfying. It should be scooped up with pita as a meal or part of a meal. It should be a revelation, not a forgettable snack.
“Please note,” stress Philadelphia restaurateurs Michael Solomonov and Steven Cook in Zahav: A World
of Israeli Cooking, “that great hummus is never refrigerated.”
Hummus has been eaten in the Middle East for centuries and, while it predates the 1948 birth of the state of Israel, it’s a passion there. It’s also the focus of quick-serve restaurants called hummusiyas. These shops make a daily batch of hummus, serve it for breakfast, lunch and/or dinner and close their doors when it runs out.
Toronto chef Anthony Rose makes fabulous hummus at Fat Pasha.
In the United States, Philadelphia chef Solomonov’s modern Israeli restaurant Zahav and hummusiya Dizengoff are lauded for their hummus.
Solomonov and business partner/restaurateur Cook have just released the Za
hav cookbook. Zahav means gold in Hebrew and is a reference to Jerusalem.
The hefty hardcover tells Solomonov’s deeply personal literal and spiritual journey between Israel and the United States. While he believes “kosher rules help define the boundaries of Israeli cuisine” and keeps a kosher restaurant, he doesn’t personally keep kosher at home.
He hopes people get his book messy and actually cook from it.
The men come to the Star test kitchen during a book tour and teach me their hummus tricks.
They admire the small, dried chickpeas I’ve sourced from the Big Carrot (smaller is apparently better). They sample four Tehinas (a.k.a. Tahinis) and opt for the two organic ones found in most supermarkets. They reach for white pita, not wholewheat. They’re not fussed about the whole flat-leaf versus curly parsley thing.
“I don’t know why curly parsley gets a bad rap,” muses Solomonov.
These hummus experts also dispute the belief (urban myth?) that you must discard the skins from freshly cooked chickpeas to make the best hummus.
“I think it’s a lot to ask of home cooks,” shrugs Solomonov. He also admits his wife buys supermarket hummus all the time because he doesn’t bring the good stuff home from his restaurants.
Even though vegan/vegetarian food is having a moment and everyone professes to want to eat “healthy,” the top-selling hummus meal at Dizengoff is topped with beef.
We make Zahav’s basic Tehina sauce and hummus Tehina. Then we dress up hummus Tehina two ways: one with warm, slightly mashed chickpeas, the other with spiced beef and pine nuts.
“Hummus is comfort food on its own,” explains Cook, “but when you add hot, browned meat to it, it’s kind of the ultimate comfort food.”
At the restaurants, they have a rule: “Don’t ever piss off the hummus.”
Then there’s the whole swoosh thing: using the back of a spoon to spread the hummus out on a plate or in a bowl with an indent in the middle.
That’s Cook’s job while he and Solomonov are at the Star.
“When you’re in Israel they say ‘let’s go wipe some hummus,’ ” says Cook. “I think the swoosh is kind of conducive to get in there and wipe — but mostly it’s fun to do.”
Basic Tehina sauce
Star Tested This is one of Zahav restaurateur Michael Solomonov’s basic building blocks. You’ll need it to make hummus. Adapted from Zahav: A World of Israeli Cooking. 1 head garlic, cloves separated but not peeled 3/4 cup (175 mL) fresh lemon juice 1-1/2 tsp (7 mL) kosher salt 2 cups (500 mL) Tehina (Tahini) 1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground cumin About 1-1/2 cups (750 mL) ice water In blender, combine unpeeled garlic cloves, lemon juice and1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt. Blend on high 30 seconds. Let stand 10 minutes so garlic mellows.
Pour mixture through fine-mesh strainer set over large mixing bowl. Use rubber spatula or wooden spoon to press solids against mesh to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard solids. Add Tehina, cumin and remaining 1 tsp (5 mL) salt.
Whisk briskly until smooth, adding a little ice water at a time when it seizes up to thin it out. The sauce will lighten in colour and become smooth, creamy and thick. Alternately, process in food processor.
Taste; adjust salt and cumin if desired.
Refrigerate, covered, up to1week or freeze up to 1 month.
Makes about 4 cups (1L).
Hummus Tehina
Star Tested Adapted from Zahav. This Israelistyle hummus focuses on chickpeas and tehina, not garlic and lemon. Dried Chickpeas (optional): 1 cup (250 mL) dried chickpeas 2 tsp (10 mL) baking soda Canned Chickpeas (optional): 3 cups (750 mL) canned chickpeas, preferably organic Hummus: 1-1/2 cups (375 mL) Basic Tehina Sauce (see previous recipe) 1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt 1/4 tsp (1 mL) ground cumin Optional accompaniments: Paprika or smoked paprika Chopped flat-leaf or curly parsley Basic Tehina Sauce Extra virgin olive oil Pita bread Decide if you want to soak and cook dried chickpeas or use canned.
If using dried chickpeas, put in large bowl with 1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda. Cover generously with water as they will more than double. Soak overnight at room temperature. Drain; rinse under cold water.
In large pot, combine soaked chickpeas and remaining 1 tsp (5 mL) baking soda. Add cold water to cover by at least 4 inches (20 cm). Bring to a boil over high heat, skimming off any scum that rises to the surface. Lower heat to medium. Cover the pot; simmer until chickpeas are completely tender, overcooked, mushy and even starting to fall apart, about 60 to 75 minutes. Drain well about 30 minutes to cool to room temperature.
If using canned chickpeas, drain and rinse.
In food processor, combine chickpeas, Basic Tehina sauce, salt and cumin. Purée 5 minutes, scraping down sides, until uber-creamy.
To serve, spread hummus in large, shallow bowl. Using back of spoon, make indent in centre. If desired, dust with paprika, sprinkle with parsley, drizzle with Basic Tehina sauce and oil, and serve with pita.
Makes about 3 cups (750 mL).
Hummus Masabacha
Star Tested Adapted from Zahav, this is hummus two ways: warm and chunky, and room temp/creamy. 1 cup (250 mL) cooked or canned chickpeas, preferably organic 1/4 cup (60 mL) Basic Tehina sauce (see recipe above) Juice of 1/2 lemon 1 recipe room temperature Hummus Tehina (about 3 cups/750 mL), see previous recipe Optional accompaniments: Chopped flat-leaf or curly parsley Paprika or smoked paprika Extra virgin olive oil Pita bread In small saucepan over medium heat, combine chickpeas, Tehina and lemon and gently warm.
Spread hummus in large, shallow bowl. Using back of spoon, make indent in centre. Fill indent with warm chickpea mixture.
If desired, top with parsley, paprika and oil, and serve with pita bread.
Makes 4 main or 8 side servings.
Jerusalem hummus
Star Tested Adapted from Zahav, this finds “normally wholesome hummus” topped with hot beef fat that exerts a “bad” influence. Baharat (seven spice) varies by region and may include black pepper, cardamom, allspice, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, nutmeg and chili pepper or paprika. I found it at Arz Fine Foods. 1 tbsp (15 mL) canola oil 1 cup (250 mL) finely chopped onion 1 lb (450 g) regular ground beef 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 2 tbsp (30 mL) pine nuts 1/2 tsp (2 mL) Baharat (7-spice) Kosher salt 1 recipe room temperature Hummus
Tehina (about 3 cups/750 mL), see recipe above Chopped flat-leaf or curly parsley Pita bread In large skillet, heat oil over medium-high. Cook onion, stirring often, 5 to 8 minutes to soften. Add meat and garlic. Cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Add pine nuts. Cook, stirring, until beef is cooked through and browned about 5 minutes. Stir in Baharat spice blend. Season to taste with salt. Cook 1 minute.
Spread hummus in large, shallow bowl. Using back of spoon, make indent in centre. Pour beef mixture into indent. Garnish with parsley. Serve with pita.
Makes 4 main or 8 side servings. jbain@thestar.ca