The position of 2013 J. Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles, Calif.; Vintages 656561, $22.95)

as one of the bestselling wines in Ontario is due largely to savvy winemaking. Immediately compelling, languid aromas of violet, black cherry, plum, toasted oak, melting milk chocolate and stewed plum lead to flavours of the same, along with notes of hazelnut, blueberry jam, dark chocolate and mocha. Lots going on. The composition comes together beautifully with high-toned fruit, crushed velvet texture and medium weight (13.5 per cent alcohol), and the resonant finish goes on for ages with black cherry, toasty pastry and rich mocha. Score: 89