Toronto Star

2013 Tommasi Graticcio Appassiona­to (Veneto, Italy) Vintages 338939 $15.95.

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This wine is rich and lush with a broad, saturated flush of fruit — black and red berries and stone fruit with a hint of stewed damson — edged with licorice root, black peppercorn, char, red meat and espresso. The wine is called Appassiona­to rather than Appassimen­to, the word for wine made from 100-per-cent dried grapes, because it’s only made from 10- to 15-per-cent dried fruit — just enough to add a bit of oomph. Score: 90+

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