Take a bite out of the Strip
PITTSBURGH—“Haluski, Rattlesnake meat or traditional? Have you decided what kind of perogies you’d like tonight?”
I believe that only in Pittsburgh (or maybe Winnipeg) would you be given the above choice in a restaurant.
Food, especially of the Slavic kind, is a hot-ticket item in Pittsburgh. I had to ask what Haluski entailed, and promptly ordered it when I learned it meant with cabbage and noodles.
Did I mention that the saintly perogi choices were being made at the Church Brew Works, a converted church that brews its own ale on site?
The food scene here is a glorious mishmash of Slavic, German, Italian and many more, usually served in gigantic portions.
The extent of my foodie education accelerated after taking the Burgh, Bits and Bites culinary walking tour for a full morning in the Strip neighbourhood. One of the 90 distinct neighbourhoods here, the Strip is a sure bet in order to get a handle on all things food-related, Pittsburgh style.
I got the skinny from Jimmy Sunseri — the Strip neighbourhood’s unofficial mayor — one busy Saturday at his Sunseri Sunrise Bakery. Jimmy, forever chomping on an oversized cigar (think Peter Parker’s editor in
Spider-Man), is the real deal: as happy cooking up his famous homemade chili as talking up fourth-generation patrons. They keep coming for his 30-centimetre hoagies and pepperoni rolls.
“No one comes here to run in and run out. Euphoria and self-abuse come to the Strip.” Half of what he says seems dubious, but delightful. “And don’t forget, the No. 1 rule in the Strip — nobody says ‘No’ to Jimmy!” Who am I to argue? I loved all the fresh cuts at the Parma Sausage Delicatessen and the Syrian fare at Labad’s, where every six hours fresh hummus is made.
Much like the well-preserved, early skyscrapers of downtown, Klavon’s Ice Cream Parlor sat closed for 30 years only to be reopened in all its art deco glory. Portions are huge and yummy, following old-style recipes.