Explore a spicy history
60 recipes in colourful romp through the evolution of chili Cocoa Bird Chili
Chili purists, steel yourselves. Or as author Robb Walsh suggests, at least suspend disbelief and let your taste buds be the judge while taking a colourful romp through chili history — and some creative adaptations of the ancient dish.
The Chili Cookbook has every version you can think of, and explores its evolution from Mexico to the American southwest and how it has influenced mealtime around the globe. The book: The Chili Cookbook ($24.99) is a 190-page hardcover that traces 500 years of chili, from the first Aztec stew to the tastes of modern Texas cowboys. There are 60 recipes for chili disciples of all kinds — with or without beans, with or without meat, using venison and lobster, and merged with cuisines of countries such as Hungary, Greece and Pakistan. There are recipes from American roadside diners and even the White House.
Walsh also includes a primer on the varieties of dried and fresh chili peppers, and a ranking of commercial chili powders, which often substitute other spices for pure ground chilies. Or there’s a recipe to make your own (see accompanying video at thestar.com). The author: Texan Robb Walsh is a longtime food writer who co-owns El Real Tex-Mex Café in Houston. On his journey into chili pepper culture, he says he discovered heart-stopping recipes in the most unlikely places. Recipes I’m dying to make: Lobster chili; white chicken poblano chili; huevos rancheros “Christmas”; lentil, sweet potato and anchovy chili; Frito pie.
3 Star Tested Unsweetened cocoa is a nod to the traditional mole sauce often cooked with turkey and chicken in Mexico and gives this dish a rich and distinctive taste. In this recipe, adapted from The Chili Cookbook, I used a high-quality dark cocoa powder. Dark meat is recommended for the ground poultry if possible, because it has more flavour. 1-1/2 tbsp (23 mL) canola or vegetable oil
2 medium yellow onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
1-1/2 tsp (7 mL) dried oregano leaves
1-1/2 tsp (7 mL) ground cumin
1 lb. (450 g) ground chicken
1 lb. (450 g) ground turkey 1⁄4 cup (60 mL) chili powder
2 bay leaves
1 tbsp (15 mL) unsweetened cocoa powder
1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt
28 oz. (796 mL) can whole tomatoes with juice, chopped coarsely
3 cups (710 mL) chicken stock
8 oz. (250 mL) can tomato sauce or
1 cup (250 mL) canned crushed
tomatoes plus 2 tbsp (30 mL) tomato paste
19 oz. (540 mL) can white kidney beans, drained and rinsed
19 oz. (540 mL) can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
Garnish: Sour cream Chopped red onion Chopped fresh cilantro
In large saucepan, heat oil over medi- um heat. Add onions and sauté until light brown and tender, about 10 minutes. Add garlic, oregano and cumin, and stir for 1 minute.
Increase heat to medium high. Add ground turkey and chicken, breaking up with back of spoon. Stir until cooked through and no longer pink. Add chili powder, bay leaves, cocoa powder and salt. Add tomatoes with juice, stock and tomato sauce (or crushed tomatoes with tomato paste). Bring to boil. Reduce and simmer, uncovered, for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add white and red beans and simmer until flavours blend, about 10 minutes or longer. Discard bay leaves. To serve, ladle chili into bowls, add a dollop of sour cream and sprinkle with red onion and cilantro.
Serves 8.