Stargazing in a Finnish winter wonderland
Glass igloos offer clear view and warmth for seeing northern lights
NORTHERN FINLAND— I’m lying in bed, staring up into a black sky torn apart by a slash of bright green. Outside, I hear the excited screams of my neighbours, fumbling to assemble tripods in temperatures of -20 C.
I’m in deepest, darkest Finland and I’ve come to this freezing corner of the Arctic Circle to spot the northern lights, which have just put in a spectacular appearance.
The best bit? My base is a glass igloo, which makes admiring the sky significantly easier. No dragging on thermals or scaling icy slopes; I just have to open my eyes.
The glass igloos at the Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort offer the best of both worlds. Outside it’s sub-zero, but inside it’s toasty warm.
The resort’s location — just outside the small town of Ivalo, far from any light pollution — means winter visitors stand an excellent chance of seeing the northern lights. You can fly to Ivalo from Helsinki.
For the brave, there are also snow igloos, and I’m reliably informed that even when it’s -30 outside, the temperature inside hovers at around -4 C. And yes, that’s supposed to be reassuring.
The wooden cabins score highest in the comfort stakes, although I wouldn’t trade my two-person glass igloo for the world.
I enter via a short tunnel, a blast of heat welcoming me in from the Arctic chill. The hi-tech design means the glass stays warm, preventing falling snow from spoiling my view of the night sky.
This is a place where the main attraction is the scenery; it’s not somewhere for those seeking five-star service.
Visitors can get their Wi-Fi fix at one of several reception cabins, the largest of which houses a shop, restaurant and bar. Breakfast is buffet-style, lunch is soup and dinner is a set menu with a surprisingly extensive wine list.
When I ask for help with my suitcase, the receptionist points to a sled. However, as I drag my luggage through the falling snow, the silence disturbed only by the distant yelp of a husky, I realize it’s this lack of luxury which allows guests a greater appreciation of the place.
Who needs mobile reception when there are northern lights to spot? Who needs fine dining when the majority of visitors are gulping down dinner as quickly as possible so they can embark on a snowmobile adventure or reindeer safari?
Days at Kakslauttanen are short but packed, which is understandable when you consider the winter sun often sets just a few hours after it has risen.
I love the idea of meeting a reindeer, and consider a visit to the reindeer farm. But I just ate reindeer, so opt instead for a reindeer safari.
I imagine “dashing through the snow” behind reindeer, but in reality it’s a much slower affair. At times I’m not even sure the reindeer pulling my sled is conscious. Yet as I slide noiselessly through the winter wonderland, I feel more relaxed than I have in a long while.
Eventually, we arrive in a clearing and our guide lights a fire using wood from a nearby tree. He digs a box out of the snow and produces a metal kettle and some coffee, and we warm our hands as he regales us with tales of traditional Sami life.
When we return to base, I spot a thermometer hanging from a cabin wall.
My guide points to the sliver of mercury with a smile. “Ah, -19. It’s a warm day in Finland.” Tamara Hinson is a U.K.-based writer. Her trip was sponsored by booking.com, which did not review or approve this story.