Toronto Star

Burma’s river of life

Irrawaddy River is the new frontier in cruise travel

- WALLACE IMMEN SPECIAL TO THE STAR

IRRAWADDY RIVER, BURMA— Visiting Burma today seems like going through a time warp to an earlier century. To board AmaWaterwa­ys’ new ship AmaPura for a journey up the Irrawaddy River, porters balance luggage on their heads as crew members guide us along a sandy beach, holding red umbrellas to shield us from scorching sunshine.

Along the shore, women scrub their laundry on the rocks and a crew hoists sacks of cargo from a wooden barge onto ox carts that are lined up on the beach.

The best way to experience the panorama and variety of cultures of this country is on a cruise up the Irrawaddy, which means the great river.

You can see diverse cultures that for the moment still remain unaffected by the marketing, fast foods and fashions that are modernizin­g the rest of Asia.

But all that may be about to change. Tourist travel to the country, wedged between India, China and Thailand, had already opened up because of reforms by the junta that for years ruled the country. It has brought in more internatio­nal flights and facilities for tourists.

Now, the sweeping win of a reform, civilian government in elections in November is likely to bring a surge of interest in tourism.

Travel on the country’s few roads is still slow and there are few guest houses outside the major cities that cater to western tourists. The best way to tour the country is on the river that’s the main travel route and prime source of food and water.

Every day, AmaPura ties up along the riverbank and a gangway is lowered to the beach for a walking tour of rural villages with unique cultures.

In one village, everyone makes the clay water jugs that are used to scoop up water from the river and store it for use at home. Kids learn to push treadles to spin pottery wheels while their mothers mould and decorate the vessels. The men fire the clay. In another village, the industry is making cheroots: whole tobacco leaves rolled into stogies.

But it’s not all work in the villages, and someone is always playing an instrument to keep the mood lively. A common amusement in villages is to gather in a square, to dance and tell stories. Wallace Immen was hosted by AmaWaterwa­ys, which didn’t review or approve this story.

 ?? WALLACE IMMEN ?? There’s a spellbindi­ng view from atop a temple in the valley of Bagan.
WALLACE IMMEN There’s a spellbindi­ng view from atop a temple in the valley of Bagan.

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