Toronto Star

This year, just say no to drinking green beer

Opt for a St. Patrick’s Day cocktail with legendary spirit Poitin, or Irish moonshine

- CHRISTINE SISMONDO SPECIAL TO THE STAR

They say everybody’s Irish on St. Patrick’s Day.

But we’re pretty sure they don’t serve green beer in Ireland, except perhaps at a few tourist traps. If you want to try for authentici­ty, then start by saying no to green beer and going for a little “hard tack” (Irish whiskey) or, for the full experience, some Poitin (Irish moonshine).

Poitin (pronounced putcheen) isn’t the only new arrival at the LCBO, either. Used to be there were two options when it came to Irish — Bushmill’s and Jameson — a choice that thousands of know-it-all bar patrons were only too happy to tell you was representa­tive of the religious divide in Ireland. Bushmill’s was for Protestant­s; Jameson for the Catholics.

Even Jimmy McNulty fell for this, repeating this urban bar legend in The Wire’s third season. Irish whis- key is non-denominati­onal, though, which is probably why it appeals to irreverent characters such as True Detective’s fictional Rusty Cohle and, apparently, real-life human Lady Gaga, each of whom drinks Jameson. And while both are known for drinking the midshelf, run-of-themill Jameson, we’d recommend trading up to the exceptiona­lly smooth and sweet Powers Gold Irish (LCBO 428409; $39.95) or, better yet, Jameson Select Reserve (LCBO 292615; $49.95), a complex and sophistica­ted spirit well worth the extra $16.

Or, you could take a cue from Bruce Springstee­n, who, on his many visits to Dublin’s famed Victorian-era pub the Long Hall opts for a Redbreast (with his pint of stout). Management keeps a special bottle of the 21-year- old Irish handy for when the Boss pops by. We don’t use that specific expression here, but we do have the 12-year-old version of Redbreast (LCBO 636845; $74.95), a splendid whiskey — robust, a bit fruity and perfect for easy-drinking, straight sipping.

Redbreast is what they call a “single pot still” whiskey, which means it’s made from both malted and unmalt- ed barley mash and distilled in batches, one of the more traditiona­l methods for making Irish. So is the often hard-to-find but currently available Green Spot (LCBO 699827; $85.40) — a creamy, vanilla-heavy and rich spirit. The more budget-friendly Writers Tears (LCBO 271106; $50.30) is a blended “pot still,” light and bright-tasting, with a taste of honey, cereal and fruit.

Finally, for a walk on the wilder side of Irish heritage, there’s always Poitín.

The subject of many Irish ballads, poems and folklore, this legendary pot-distilled, deceptivel­y smooth, surprising­ly sweet, doozy of a spirit (61.5 per cent alcohol by volume) has inspired many, including Toronto’s own bar star, Mike Webster of Bar Raval.

Webster has concocted a signature St. Patrick’s Day cocktail with Teeling Poitin (LCBO 440016; $43.95), a new arrival to Ontario, marking the first time we’ve been able to buy Irish moonshine here.

The Giant’s Causeway

11/2 oz Teeling Poitin 1/2 oz Gooderham and Worts whisky 1/4 oz Lustau Amontillad­o sherry 3/4 oz orgeat (almond syrup, available at BYOB, or look for “orzata” at the grocery store) 3/4 oz fresh lemon juice A splash of craft Pilsner beer Shake all ingredient­s except the Pilsner in a cocktail shaker with ice. Strain into a chilled coupe glass and top with a splash of Pilsner.

 ?? RENÉ JOHNSTON/TORONTO STAR ?? Mike Webster of Bar Raval whips up a signature St. Patrick’s Day cocktail called the Giant’s Causeway.
RENÉ JOHNSTON/TORONTO STAR Mike Webster of Bar Raval whips up a signature St. Patrick’s Day cocktail called the Giant’s Causeway.

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