Toronto Star

How to take grilled cheese to the next level,

Nothing beats ooey-gooey tradition, but here are five ways to ramp up this classic sandwich to perfection

- KARON LIU FOOD WRITER

In an unexpected example of corporate synergy, the 175-year-old Royal Society of Chemistry, a U.K.-based non-profit of chemical scientists from around the world, and the British Cheese Board came up with the formula for creating the perfect slice of cheese toast in August 2013. In the press release, head chemist Ruth Neale described the perfect slice thusly:

“As the result of tests we carried out in our Chemistry Centre kitchen, we found that the perfect slice can be made by melting 50 g of sliced hard cheese, such as cheddar, on a slice of white bread, 10 mm thick, under the grill. The cheese on toast should sit at a distance of 18 cm from the heat source — which in our grill was at a temperatur­e of 115C — and needs to cook for four minutes to achieve the perfect consistenc­y and taste.”

Here’s what it means for non-scientists: Step 1: Put 50 grams of medium sharp cheddar on a slice of 1-cmthick white sandwich bread. Step 2: Place bread on a lined pan in the oven. Make sure the bread is 18 cm under the heating element. Step 3: Broil for 4 minutes at 240F (115C), or the low setting (our cheese didn’t start bubbling until the sevenminut­e mark, since oven temperatur­es can vary depending on the make and model). Step 4: Eat it.

Verdict: Never doubt science. The slice of cheese was smaller than the slice of bread but once it melted, the gooey cheese melted perfectly to reach the four corners of the slice. The bread was crisp but not burnt so it didn’t overshadow the flavour of the bubbly cheese. While turning on the broiler and breaking out the digital scale to measure cheese is a big production for toast, it is good to know of the potential deliciousn­ess that could be had. Five Next-Level Grilled Cheeses Nothing is wrong with melting a slice or two of Kraft Singles on Wonder Bread to satisfy the craving, but we asked five cheese experts for some more adventurou­s flavour combinatio­ns, beyond the basic apple and cheddar or brie and pear. Cheese Boutique’s Strawberry Compote and Mascarpone on Brioche For a sweet take on cheese toast, west-end cheese mecca Cheese Boutique owner Afrim Pristine would spread creamy mascarpone and tart strawberry compote on a buttery brioche. You wouldn’t want to grill and press down on a delicate brioche bun like sandwich bread, so heat it in the oven or toaster oven until the cheese starts to run.

“I love the combinatio­n of strawberri­es and balsamic. Adding mascarpone only makes sense. The cheese is rich, creamy and naturally sweet, which contrasts the acidity and tartness of the balsamic,” says Pristine.

“Mascarpone blends in well with other ingredient­s, and doesn’t take over like other cheeses would in desserts.” Individual­ly sized brioches can be found at bakeries like Brioche Dorée and of course, Riverside institutio­n Bonjour Brioche. Strawberry compote is incredibly easy to make and once you’ve got it down, you’ll want to add it to other desserts like ice cream, pound cakes and cheesecake­s.

Sweet Strawberry Compote and Mascarpone on Brioche

Star Tested

2 small brioche buns 2 tbsp (30 ML) mascarpone 1/4 cup (60 ML) strawberry compote (recipe follows) Balsamic vinegar, to taste Preheat oven or toaster oven to 350 F (180 C).

Slice brioche buns in half. Spread mascarpone and strawberry compote on bottom halves of both brioches. Place bottom and top halves of brioches on a lined baking sheet and bake until mascarpone begins to melt and bread is slightly toasted, about 3 to 5 minutes.

Remove from oven. Drizzle balsamic vinegar on bottom halves of brioches. Place brioche tops on bottoms. Serve immediatel­y. Makes 2 brioches.

Strawberry Compote

Star Tested

1 cup (250 ML) strawberri­es, tops removed and quartered 2 tsp (10 ML) granulated sugar 2 tsp (10 ML) lemon juice In a small saucepan over mediumlow heat, add all ingredient­s and stir until sugar has dissolved. Bring to a slow simmer. Cover and continue to cook until strawberri­es break down and become dark and syrupy, about 5 minutes. Remove lid; stir occasional­ly to prevent burning. Remove from heat; let cool to room temperatur­e.

Makes about 1/4 cup compote. Cheesewerk­s’ Beijing Grilled Cheese Don’t knock it till you’ve tried it. Cheesewerk­s, the grilled cheese restaurant at Bathurst and Wellington, has an eclectic menu and owner Kevin Durkee suggests making his Beijing grilled cheese where Asiago is paired with Chinese barbecue pork, yep the kind you get at Chinatown.

“Each of the Cheesewerk­s ‘cities’ are inspired by places we love, places we’ve eaten and spots filled with family stories,” says Durkee. “I was married in 2008 and spent my honeymoon at the Beijing Olympics—so this dim sum-inspired combinatio­n is a nod to my husband’s family (he’s Chinese) and our amazing honeymoon together. Asiago was chosen because it adds a sharpness and saltiness that compliment­s the sweetness of the hoisin and inherent crisp, onion flavour.”

Beijing Grilled Cheese

Star Tested

Room temperatur­e unsalted butter, for buttering bread 2 thick slices Fred’s Bread herb and onion sourdough, or plain sourdough 1 cup (250 ML) shredded Asiago 6 thin slices Chinese barbecue pork 2 green onion shoots, thinly sliced Hoisin sauce, to taste Butter outside of each bread slice. Sprinkle half of cheese on one slice of bread. Layer barbecue pork and green onions on top. Drizzle with hoisin and add remaining cheese. Top with other bread slice.

Grill on a grill pan or skillet on medium for about 4 minutes per side until bread is golden and cheese has melted. Cut in half diagonally and serve immediatel­y.

Makes 1 sandwich. Leslievill­e Cheese Market’s Muenster and HP Grilled Cheese This rustic bread should not be confused with the cornbread that’s a staple in the cuisine of the American South. Portuguese cornbread is crusty and dense and not as airy like its American counterpar­t, making it perfect for holding its integrity after being pressed on a hot grill. Find it at a number of Portuguese bakeries across the city (Ossington’s Venezia Bakery is the gold standard for many).

William Joseph, manager at the Leslievill­e Cheese Market at Queen East and Broadview, keeps it simple by pairing the bread with Muenster, a pale, semi-soft cow’s milk cheese from the U.S. known for its characteri­stic orange rind (not to be confused with a similarly named Munster, a soft pungent French cheese from which Muenster originated). Muenster melts incredibly well and is a go-to for quesadilla­s, tuna melts and mac and cheese. “HP sauce adds a tangy flavour and the Muenster is a soft delicate flavour,” says Joseph. “Both go well together.”

Muenster and HP Grilled Cheese

Star Tested

2 thick slices Portuguese cornbread Room temperatur­e unsalted butter 3 Muenster slices HP sauce, to taste Butter outside of both bread slices. Layer cheese on one slice of bread. Drizzle with HP sauce and top with other bread slice.

Grill on a hot pan over medium heat for 2 to 3 minutes per side, or until cheese has melted. Serve immediatel­y. Makes 1 sandwich. Thin Blue Line’s Zythologue and Apple Curry Grilled Cheese Fans of a more pungent cheese should try this sandwich pairing by Roncesvall­es’ beloved fromagerie. Owner Marc Rozender is a big fan of Quebec cheeses and recommends using Zythologue, a semifirm cow’s milk cheese that’s aged in beer by Fromagerie Hamel in Montreal.

“In the rind you’ll find little crystals of flavour from the beer and a sweetness you don’t expect in a raclette,” he explains.

“The cheese starts with caramel and is followed by a walnut and almost almond nuttiness. Then that vegetable taste so distinctiv­e of raclettes comes through and in this case, artichoke.”

Pair the cheese with sourdough (Rozender prefers Epi Breads for its exceptiona­lly crisp crust and chewy interior), salted butter (he also prefers the lighter, grassier flavour of Cows Creamy butter) and a big spoon of apple curry chutney from local preserves company Spade and Spoon (find them at the Dufferin Grove or Sorauren Park farmers market in the city).

If you can’t find Zythologue, substitute with another raclette, though all the ingredient­s listed here are available at Thin Blue Line.

Zythologue and Apple Curry Grilled Cheese

Star Tested

2 thick slices sourdough Room temperatur­e salted butter 3/4 cup (180 ML) grated Zythologue or raclette 1 tbsp (15 ML) apple curry chutney or any fruit-based chutney

Butter both sides of bread. Sprinkle one slice with cheese and chutney and sandwich other bread slice on top. Grill on a skillet over medium heat on both sides until bread is golden brown and cheese has melted. Serve immediatel­y. Makes 1 sandwich. Monforte on Wellington’s Pulled Pork Grilled Cheese This sandwich is for voracious appetites who want the appetizer, side and main all in one bite.

Tyler Cormier, co-chef of Monforte Dairy’s Monforte on Wellington restaurant in Stratford, Ont., suggests this take on the Cubano.

“A Cuban is a known classic but with the twist of Perth county pork and Monforte cheddar it brings it to a new level,” he says.

“Each component brings its own unique flavour profile from the acidity of the mustard, saltiness of pickles, the juicy pork and richness of our cheddar.”

Here, there’s already a lot of flavour in the filling so white sandwich bread works.

If you’re not in the mood to make pulled pork from scratch, you can buy it pre-made at supermarke­ts. Try Lou’s Barbecue Co. fully cooked pulled pork available at No Frills, Loblaws and Walmart, which you can reheat in the microwave. Cucumber pickles are essentiall­y quick pickles and have a crisper grassy crunch than regular pickles.

Pulled Pork Grilled Cheese

Star Tested

2 thick slices white sandwich bread Room temperatur­e unsalted butter 1 cup (250 ML) cooked pulled pork, reheated and shredded 1/2 cup (125 ML) shredded medium cheddar 1/4 cup (60 ML) cucumber pickles (recipe follows) Grainy mustard, to taste Butter outside sides of bread. Layer one slice with pulled pork, cheddar and cucumber. Add mustard. Top with other slice of bread.

On a grill pan over medium heat, sear sandwich for 4 minutes on each side until cheese has melted. Cut sandwich in half; serve immediatel­y. Makes 1 sandwich.

Cucumber Pickles

Star Tested

1/2 cup (125 ML) thinly sliced cucumber 1/4 cup (60 ML) white vinegar 1/4 cup (60 ML) cold water 1/2 tsp (2 ML) table salt 1/2 tsp (2 ML) granulated sugar Place cucumbers in a small bowl. Add in vinegar and water. Stir in salt and sugar until dissolved. Let sit for 15 to 20 minutes before serving.

Makes about 1/2 cup quick pickles. karonliu@thestar.ca

 ??  ?? Sourdough with salted butter, zythogue cheese and apple curry chutney.
Sourdough with salted butter, zythogue cheese and apple curry chutney.
 ?? MELISSA RENWICK/TORONTO STAR ?? Quick pickles add crunch to a pulled pork grilled cheese.
MELISSA RENWICK/TORONTO STAR Quick pickles add crunch to a pulled pork grilled cheese.
 ??  ?? Mascarpone, strawberry compote, a drizzle of balsamic on a brioche.
Mascarpone, strawberry compote, a drizzle of balsamic on a brioche.
 ??  ?? Chinese barbecued pork is an unexpected addition.
Chinese barbecued pork is an unexpected addition.
 ??  ?? Portuguese cornbread forms the basis for this sandwich.
Portuguese cornbread forms the basis for this sandwich.

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