A city steeped in soccer
A trip to Manchester, England, reveals the sport’s history and fans’ present-day passion
MANCHESTER, England—This city hasn’t just been shaped by the Industrial Revolution, but by the “beautiful game,” too.
Despite having a Scouser (a.k.a. Liverpudlian) husband who’s a huge Liverpool FC fan, I had only ever been to one football — sorry, soccer — match. And that was a Liverpool one, so he was distinctly unimpressed when I told him I’d be attending a Manchester City match.
On the plus side, I’m doing it in style. I’m watching the match from the luxurious, Champagne-soaked confines of the hospitality suite at the team’s Etihad Stadium.
My weekend in Manchester is a baptism by fire for a soccer novice.
The first stop is the National Football Museum, where we learn about the sport through hands-on exhibits, find out about the world’s greatest players and work up a sweat by testing our goalshooting skills.
The museum is well thought out, with interactive displays and games designed to appeal to hardcore soccer fans, as well as those with much less knowledge of the “beautiful game.”
I spot the soccer ball David Beckham used to score the winning penalty during the 2002 World Cup in Japan, and can almost smell the sweat clinging to the shirt Diego Maradona wore during the infamous Hand of God incident.
I get rather excited when I come across former Liverpool player Steven Gerrard’s signed cleat before it’s time to turn my focus to his team’s arch rivals.
Our next stop is Hotel Football, a soccer-themed hotel partly owned by several former Manchester United players, including assistant manager Ryan Giggs.
The artwork in my room charts the evolution of the soccer ball, and the shower gel comes in replica energy drink sachets; there are chocolate soccer balls on my pillow and there’s a soccer pitch beneath a retractable roof on the top floor.
Sadly, I don’t spot Ryan Giggs, but I do get to visit his workplace later that day, during a tour of Manchester United’s stadium, Old Trafford.
The dressing room, with players’ numbered shirts hanging on the wall, provides a great photo opportunity, but I also love learning about the lesser-known aspects, such as how the huge lights placed inches above the grass on the soccer pitch encourage it to grow, and how Manchester United’s disabled fans get to watch matches free.
Things take a sombre turn in the Manchester United museum, where there’s a display about the 1958 Munich air disaster that killed eight “Busby Babes” — Manchester United players who were, at the time of their deaths, managed by Matt Busby.
But there’s also a dazzling trophy cabinet full of shiny silverware and artifacts — including a scorecard — which dates back to 1880, just two years after the club was founded as Newton Heath.
The next day, I switch allegiances and head to the Etihad Stadium for a Manchester City game.
My first soccer game was a Liverpool one and I loved it.
I loved the shouting, the warm beer, the hot, meaty pies sold during halftime and the raw passion of it all.
But I’m to experience a different side of soccer today, because I’m watching the match from the luxurious confines of the hospitality suite, which is reserved for spon- sors and dignitaries.
The dress code is smart-casual (no soccer shirts), there’s chilled Champagne on arrival, a free bar and a delicious meal that includes beautifully presented dainty chocolates at halftime. When the whistle blows and the game starts, I head out onto the balcony to watch the action.
There are 55,000 people inside the stadium and their songs, chants and yes, occasional swear words, fill the air. I can’t imagine what it’s like when the crowds are even bigger.
One of the highest attendances at any British Premier League match was at Old Trafford. On March 31, 2007, 76,098 soccer fans piled into the Manchester United stadium.
And with ticket prices increasing (Liverpool fans recently walked out midmatch after ticket prices hit £77, or about $146 Canadian), it’s hardly surprising it’s one of the most lucrative leagues in Europe.
The contracts with TV networks all over the world net the league billions of dollars alone, and several players at both Manchester City and Manchester United earn around $400,000 a week.
I can’t quite get my head around such huge pay packets.
And as much as I enjoy the hospitality suite’s Champagne, chocolates and five-star service, it all feels slightly sterile.
I can’t help but look down into the stands at the cheering, beerwaving fans and wish I was down there with them, soaking up the atmosphere, singing along to the soccer chants and experiencing the unique, uncensored thrill of England’s beautiful game. Tamara Hinson’s trip was sponsored by Visit Britain, which didn’t review or approve this story.