Sauté these spices to give your lentils life
The Indian Family Kitchen cookbook shows how home cooks can infuse any dish with flavour
Despite India’s centuries of culinary history and vast differences in regional cooking, Toronto diners often restrict themselves to butter chicken and chicken tikka masala. Perhaps it’s the lack of menu options or reluctance to try anything unfamiliar, but author Anjali Pathak’s new book, The Indian Family Kitchen, wants you to play with Indian spices and add them to roasted vegetables, barbecued meats, salads or even cocktails. The book While there are a few traditionally Indian recipes such as bhajias (vegetable fritters) and the obligatory chicken tikka masala, the majority of recipes give an Indian spin to — for lack of a better description — western fare such as beef burgers and potato wedges, roasted salmon and cheesecake. The goal here is to show that with the addition of just a few spices such as cardamom or cinnamon, any dish can be infused with the country’s warm, distinctive aromas. The quote “I have always believed that good cookbooks should be covered in splashes from the preparation of meals gone by, and full of the cook’s own scribbled substitutions and suggestions. They should look dogeared and crinkled from being well read and frequently cooked from.” Good, because I got turmeric stains on the book already. Shoppers may recognize Pathak’s family company, the U.K.-based Patak’s, which sells chutneys, pickles, curry pastes and sauces in supermarkets (the “h” was dropped in the ’60s to make it easier for Brits to pronounce). The tester Cooking is a great way to learn about different cultures and food history in addition to securing a go-to dish in the event of a potluck. That being said, as someone who does weight training six days a week, I prefer dishes that have a good balance of protein, vegetables, good fats and carbs to keep me energized and feeling full. I get angry when I make a dish and I’m hungry 20 minutes after eating it. Recipes I’m dying to make I’ve been on a vegetarian kick and have a sack of lentils to use up, so I made the tadka dal, which turned out to be a flavourful, summery dish that my coworkers lapped up in the test kitchen. The Balti-baked squash is a good example of the book’s use of unexpected ingredient pairings: butternut squash is basted with a mix of peppercorn, coriander, cumin seeds and garam masala, then Mediterranean flavours are added via sun-dried tomatoes, feta and mint. Now I’m onto the slow-cooked tamarindglazed pork shoulder.
Tadka dal
Star Tested In a nutshell, it’s slow-cooked lentils topped with oil that’s infused with garlic, ginger, chilies and spices. It’s an easy and colourful weeknight dish that Pathak says made an appearance at her dinner table at least once a week when she was growing up. If you can’t find the spices (check out the food shops of Gerrard India Bazaar, a.k.a. Little India, or Bulk Barn), Pathak suggests substituting with your own spice mixes. When in doubt, garlic, chili flakes, cinnamon, salt and peppercorn are a good starting point.
4 cups (1 L) cold water 11/2 cups (375 mL) dried yellow lentils or split peas, rinsed 1 tsp (5 mL) ground turmeric 2 black cardamom pods (optional) 3 tbsp (45 mL) vegetable oil 2 small cinnamon sticks 4 green cardamom pods 6 whole cloves 2 tsp (10 mL) black mustard seeds 1 tsp (5 mL) cumin seeds 2 green onions, finely chopped 2-3 chopped chilies of your liking 2 minced garlic cloves 1 tbsp peeled and minced fresh ginger 6 cherry tomatoes, halved 1 tsp (5 mL) granulated sugar Salt, to taste Juice of 1/2 lemon Chopped fresh cilantro, for garnish
In a large saucepan, bring water and lentils to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir in turmeric and black cardamom pods, if using. Reduce heat to medium and continue to boil for 45 minutes to an hour, or until lentils are soft and have started to break down. Stir occasionally and skim off any foam. Turn heat down to low and cook on a gentle simmer.
In a small saucepan, heat oil over medium heat. Add cinnamon sticks, green cardamom and cloves. Cook until cardamom pods begin to turn white and the heads of the cloves begin to swell. Add mustard and cumin seeds. Stir and bring to a sizzle.
Add green onions, chilies, garlic and ginger. Cook until fragrant. Add tomatoes, add sugar, salt and lemon juice. Stir until salt and sugar has dissolved. Remove from heat.
Pour mixture over lentils and stir. If lentils have dried out, add a bit of water. Transfer to serving dish and garnish with cilantro. Serve with rice or warm naan.
Makes 4 servings.