2013 Vinum Africa Chenin Blanc, South Africa (Vintages 739995 $15.95)

This stunningly good wine starts with faint aromas of orange oil and smoke before rushing in with lively, lean flavours of grapefruit laced with toffee and coconut. Orange oil and smoke return on the finish, which is long and resonant. Sip this restrained, complex white with any fish dish. Terrific value.

Score: 92