Small town charm by the seaside in Hanko
Known as Finland’s Riviera, it was once frequented by Russian aristocracy
HANKO, FINLAND— At the southernmost tip of this country on a windswept peninsula lies the town of Hanko. People here often refer to it as Finland’s Riviera.
Off-season when the storms roll in, that may be hard to imagine, but in July and August, as the water warms up, a micro climate envelops the region: temperatures hover a little above the national average and summers linger.
Hanko was once a spa town for the Russian aristocracy.
The sandy stretch of beach between the Monument of Liberty (commemorating Finland’s independence from Russian rule) and Neljan Tuulen Tupa (the House of Four Winds) on Pieni Mantysaari (Little Pine Island) is dotted with ornate wooden villas, remnants of a bitter- sweet era for the Finns.
This bilingual town has fewer than 10,000 inhabitants. Numbers swell in summer during the Hanko Regatta and in the Itasatama (Eastern Harbour) colourful flags from dozens of countries fly above the visiting sailboats and the restaurants lining the harbour are crammed with people.
But Hanko has retained its smalltown charm. There are more bicycles than cars here and you can rent one of the locally made Helkama bikes for just a few euros a day.
The centre is defined by a bright red water tower and the pretty Lutheran church on a hill. You can ride the tower to the top for spectacular views of Hanko’s archipelago and the church is a peaceful place to sit down and rest.
Below is a busy pedestrian street lined with shops. Cycle further south along the coast and if you are lucky you will come upon the beautiful old fishing hamlet of Gunnarstrand. Its shores are strung with picturesque red fishing huts, some of which are still used for their original purpose while others serve as miniature summer retreats.
Today, this is some of the most sought after real estate in Hanko and it’s easy to see why. The beach feels private even if it is not. The scent of wild roses fills the air and the silence is broken only by the cry of sea birds, the hushed sound of oars moving through water or children’s feet running across the sand.
Beyond Gunnarstrand is Tullstrand, a popular cold water surfing destination and on a windy day there are dozens of kite surfers riding the waves. This is a subculture that has been a vibrant part of Hanko since the early 1980s when legendary Robbie Nash came to town for the world windsurfing championships and inspired a whole generation of young surfers.
There is more to Hanko than just the seaside, however. There are many good walking and hiking trails to explore in and around town. Bring a pail with you because the forest is carpeted with wild blueberries and chanterelle gold.
The city of Hanko recently opened a conservation area previously closed to the public. The Tulliniemi nature path takes you to the furthest point south and is home to migratory birds, sea kale and several endangered species. It is a 6.7-kilometre trail to the 59th parallel and the end of Finland. Karen MacKenna is a Toronto writer.