Spice up your life
Flavorwalla introduces cooks to big, bold flavours of India
Indian-born veteran chef Floyd Cardoz of New York’s Paowalla and Mumbai’s Bombay Canteen, as well as Top Chef MastersSeason 3 winner, has created more than100 recipes for Flavorwalla, showcasing how to use spice combinations to elevate grilled meats, fish and rice. Home cooks whose spice racks are collecting dust and are confused when given the choice of cayenne or paprika, read on. The book: While the chef is originally from Mumbai, Cardoz writes that Flavorwalla ($45, Artisan) isn’t strictly an Indian cookbook, but rather a book on how to use spices (still, you’ll find a guide to making ghee and a tamarind margarita recipe). The intro includes an explainer on the spices used in the book, as well as grinding and storing tips.
Flavorwalla leans toward flavours reminiscent of Latin, southeast Asian and South Asian cooking and the recipes are divided into categories such as weeknight meals, dinner for two, cooking for crowds and breakfast. There are several grilling recipes, so it’s timely for those hoping to add more to their barbecue repertoire. The quote: “My cooking is about all the flavours I use, not just the spices . . . In India, a walla is a merchant of a specific item or someone who is knowledgeable about a trade . . . I’m the flavour walla because I have made my mark as a creator of bold, exciting food with balanced layers of flavours and textures that play off each other.” The tester: Since becoming the food writer for the Star, I’ve accumulated quite the collection of spices from India, Ethiopia, Thailand, Philippines, China, Japan, Korea, Turkey, Spain, Syria, Israel, Italy, Mexico, Colombia and France. Some of my gotos (aside from salt and pepper) are cinnamon, cumin and cayenne, which instantly add an extra layer of flavour to grilled chicken or sautéed greens. Recipes I’m dying to make: Brussels sprouts hash (warm, shaved Brussels sprouts salad); “Umpa” polenta with wild mushrooms (umpa is an Indian breakfast dish that Cardoz made to secure his win on Top Chef Masters); pork butt with tomatoes, olives and fennel; cider-glazed seared scallops with cauliflower puree.
Let it be known the cauliflower isn’t a mashed potato replacement, but rather a way for the vegetable’s natural bitterness to complement the sweetness of the scallops.
Grilled Pork Loin with Oranges and Lemons
Star Tested This adapted recipe from Flavorwalla encapsulates the book’s mantra of using simple spices and marinades to transform anything: zesty citrus fruits and aromatic cinnamon, paprika and ginger give a simple grilled pork loin a complex tart, caramelized and warm flavour.
The recipe calls for a charcoal or propane grill to cook the loin, but if you’re grill-less (an apartment dweller), sear the marinated loin on an oven-safe skillet until browned on all sides. Place the citrus slices on top and roast in the oven for 35 minutes at 375 F (190 C), or until the loin reaches an internal temperature of 165 F (70 C).
Cardoz writes that pork is best when still pink in the middle, but unless you’re familiar with the pork’s sourcing, aim for Toronto Public Health’s recommended 165 F (70 C). The book emphasizes using whole spices for more intense flavours, but if you’re using ground spices I added the conversions.
I substituted dried rosemary for fresh because it didn’t make sense to buy a package of fresh rosemary just for a single spring.
I poured out a bit of the marinade before putting the pork in the bag, and simmered it into a sauce so none of the tangy, citrusy flavours went to waste. 3 whole cloves or 1/4 tsp ground cloves 1 1/2-inch (4 cm.) cinnamon stick or 1/2 tsp (2 mL) ground cinnamon 1 orange, thinly sliced 2 lemons, thinly sliced 2 tbsp (30 mL) canola oil 4 finely minced garlic cloves 2 tbsps (30 mL) freshly grated ginger 1 tsp (5 mL) finely chopped dried rosemary leaves 2 tbsp (30 mL) sweet paprika 1 tbsp (15 mL) coarsely ground black peppercorns 1 tbsp (15 mL) mustard powder 11/2 tbsp (22 mL) kosher salt 2 lbs (32 oz) centre-cut pork loin roast In a spice/coffee grinder, finely grind cloves and cinnamon stick. Set aside.
Squeeze juice from orange and lemon slices into a large, resealable plastic bag. Add citrus slices to bag along with canola oil, garlic, ginger, rosemary, paprika, ground pepper, mustard powder, salt and clove and cinnamon mix. Pour some marinade out to use as sauce, cover and refrigerate overnight.
Place pork loin in bag, massaging it to evenly distribute marinade. Refrigerate overnight.
If using a charcoal grill, arrange coals on one side of grill and bring to medium-high heat. If using a gas grill, turn off one burner after grill has reached temperature.
Remove pork from marinade and place on cooler side of grill. Place citrus slices on top of pork loin. Cover and cook until pork reaches internal temperature of 165F (70C), about 30 minutes.
Transfer meat to cooling rack and let rest uncovered 8 minutes before slicing across the grain to serve.
Meanwhile, take reserved liquid marinade and bring to a simmer in a small saucepan for 3 to 4 minutes until sauce has thickened.
Pour into a small bowl to serve alongside pork.
Makes 6 servings. karonliu@thestar.ca