Wookie Balls roll back into the Rivoli
New owners of Queen West venue make subtle changes, putfavourite back on menu
In all my years living in Toronto I’ve only been to the Rivoli once and that was to stop by for a burger and fries on the patio. I’ve never seen a show in the backroom where Adele had her first Toronto show, and a pre-6ix Drake did improv, or ventured upstairs to the pool hall where Amy Winehouse was said to have hung out.
That’s what the new owners of the 34-year-old restaurant and concert hall are trying to change this week with the relaunch of the Rivoli. Longtime Torontonians already know that the Rivoli is hallowed ground for the city’s arts scene, but some young ’uns only know Queen West as a destination for fast fashion and burger chains and have no knowledge of the Big Bop, Criminal Records or Hits & Misses.
“We want to remind people that the Rivoli is a great venue to eat or throw a large party,” says Sarah Henning, who quietly took over the venue with her friends Jessica McHardy and Jenna Wood from the original owners almost two years ago.
“We don’t want to change too much because it was a successful business when we bought it, but at the same time we’re getting in touch with a younger generation that may not know the history or have it on their radar.”
Henning worked at the Rivoli since moving to Toronto from London at 19 (she’s now 31 along with Wood, with McHardy at 29).
In 2014, the original owners — David Stearn, Andre Rosenbaum and Jeff Strasburg — asked if Henning, then the general manager, wanted to take over.
She recruited her longtime friends Wood and McHardy to be business partners. McHardy, a George Brown culinary school graduate and former cook at places like the Federal, became the chef.
“I spent my evenings here after work to visit Sarah,” McHardy says. “We saw a secret Feist show and my brother and I would play pool upstairs. It’s one of the few patios on the strip and I can attest it’s one of the best places for people-watching in the city.”
The new owners have gradually made small changes here and there: new paint, a tweak to The Rivoli’s logo, the striped awning on the patio has disappeared and new lights are being put in the concert hall to make it less of a heat wave for performers on stage.
“As new owners, you have ideas of what you want to change but ultimately we didn’t want to change too much and scare people away,” says McHardy.
“We took over, closed for a day, painted the whole restaurant in 30 hours and reopened as business as usual.”
Food-wise, McHardy added lighter options like shaved Brussels sprouts and apple salad and house-made ricotta gnocchi, brought on a new brunch menu but kept on customer favourites like the pad Thai, which McHardy hasn’t changed (ketchup and all) since the Rivoli opened.
“It’s a strange happening that they were three men in their 30s, and 30 years later it’s three women in our 30s coming in,” says McHardy. “We want to keep the momentum going and have a place for burlesque shows, comedy shows, art shows, fundraisers, concerts with emerging and established acts.
“We don’t want to scare away our regulars but this is a younger strip now, and there’s people who don’t know about us.
“We just want people to know the Rivoli is here for everybody.”
Wookie Balls
Star Tested Back when she was a patron of the Rivoli, McHardy loved to order were Wookie Balls, sushi rice balls rolled in sesame seeds and deep fried to a golden brown crisp.
They went off the menu for a while but McHardy has brought back her favourite snack. Here’s how to make them at home: 2 cups (500 mL) uncooked short-grain white rice 2 cups (500 mL) water 1/2 cup (125 mL) mirin (rice cooking wine) or rice vinegar 2 tbsp (30 mL) sesame oil 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped Thai basil or mint 2 tbsp (30 mL) finely chopped cilantro 1/2 cup (125 mL) each black and white sesame seeds Vegetable or canola oil, for frying Sweet chili sauce, for dipping Rinse rice 3 to 4 times under cold, running water or until water runs clear.
In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine rinsed rice and 2 cups water. Bring to a rapid boil, uncovered. Reduce heat to low and cover.
Cook for 15 to 20 minutes, or until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed. Remove from heat, fluff rice with fork and let stand uncovered for 10 minutes.
Transfer cooked rice to large mixing bowl. Fold in mirin or vinegar and sesame oil until every grain of rice is coated. Fold in chopped herbs. Let stand for10 minutes to let rice absorb liquids. Using hands, form ping-pong ball-sized orbs.
In a bowl, combine black and white sesame seeds. Roll rice balls in sesame seeds until evenly coated.
In a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, pour in oil until it reaches about an inch deep. When oil is hot, fry rice balls until golden brown, about 1 minute. Skim off any excess sesame seeds floating in oil in between frying.
Let balls rest on a plate lined with paper towel before serving with sweet chili sauce.
Makes 18 Wookie Balls.