FRESH BITES: COLLARD GREENS
Low in calories and rich in antioxidants, these leaves may also help lower cholesterol and are a good source of fibre
Tired of kale? Try its milder cousin, collard greens.
These wide, flat, blue-green leaves sit right next to crinkly kale in the produce section, yet no marketing firm or Dr. Oz has tapped them as the next dark green superstar.
One local cheerleader is Alex Rad, chef/owner of Smoque ’N Bones BBQ ’n Bourbon Bar on Queen West, who just may serve the city’s most scrumptious collard greens.
Rad says he goes through about 24 bunches of collards a day. He chops off the stems, slices the leathery leaves into ribbons and blanches them in vegetable stock for about 40 minutes, adding a little skin from his house-smoked ham hocks for a smoky flavour. The limp, dark green leaves are tossed with caramelized onions, chopped roasted garlic, sea salt and freshly ground pepper and served as a savoury side dish.
“You can’t get any healthier,” he says. “My collards probably have the least fat of anything on the menu.”
Though finely-shredded collard leaves are ready in five minutes in a skillet, in the Southern U.S. they cook them low and slow, says pal Janie Porter from Savannah, GA. “My mom steams them forever with a ham hock or salt pork until they’re very, very soft,” says Porter, who sprinkles her greens with hot pepper vinegar sauce.
Most of the collards in Toronto supermarkets come from J&D produce (home of Little Bear brand), which grows its summer greens in New Jersey and transitions to southern Texas for the winter.
The demand for collards remains slow and steady, says J&D sales and production guy Jeff Brechler.
“Though they’ve been overshadowed by the explosion of kale,” he says, “they’re just as good for you.” Nutrition plus Along with kale, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, rutabaga and turnips, collard greens are a cruciferous vegetable. Low in calories and rich in antioxidants, they’re an excellent source of vitamin A, vitamin C and folate and a good source of calcium and fibre. Collards may also help lower cholesterol. Buy and store
Collards grow as a loose bouquet of leaves instead of in a tight head like other cabbages.
Choose bunches with firm deep green leaves and no yellow.
Smaller leaves are more tender, with a milder flavour, but they’re hard to find here.
Store collard greens in a plastic bag, removing as much air from the bag as possible, and refrigerate for up to five days. Prep
Though traditionally slow-cooked with pork or bacon, collards can also be quickly sautéed like cabbage or wilted in a little chicken broth.
Rinse leaves under cold running water. Slice 1/2-inch (1 cm) wide, cutting the ribbons in half lengthwise if too long.
Remove thick ribs. Discard stems or chop into 1/4-inch (0.5 cm) pieces for quick and even cooking.
Steam collards for maximum nutrition and flavour. Fill pot with 2 inches (5 cm) of water then add chopped greens to upper part of steamer. Cover tightly and steam 5 minutes, or until tender. Serve
Lose the lettuce and use collard leaves to line a wrap, shred over tacos or massage in a salad instead of kale with a lemon-olive oil or lemon-tahini dressing.
Simmer in chicken broth or sauté in oil to serve as a side dish.
Add steamed collards to soups and casseroles.
Go southern by serving steamed collard greens with black-eyed peas and brown rice.
In a food processor or high-speed blender, add a handful of collard greens to smoothies.
Cook sliced potatoes until almost tender. Add chopped collards and sliced turkey sausage. Cook until greens are tender and sausage is cooked through.
For brunch, serve stir-fried collards with fried eggs, mix into scrambled eggs or fold into an omelette.
Add chopped collard greens when pasta is about 5 minutes from being done, drain and toss with your favourite pasta sauce.
Couve Plus
Star Tested Former Star food writer Susan Sampson prettied up this traditional Brazilian dish with red pepper for colour and celery for crunch in The Complete Leafy Greens Cookbook. To make it fast and easy, slice collards thin and chop all the vegetables before you begin.
Sampson says don’t sauté collards longer than 5 minutes or they’ll become tough. bunch collard greens (10 to 12 oz./280-340g) 2 tbsp (30 ml) extra virgin olive oil 1 onion, diced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 small red bell pepper, cut in tiny dice 1 stalk celery, finely diced 1 tsp (5 ml) or more kosher salt 1/4 tsp (1 ml) freshly ground black pepper Remove collard stems and cut leaves through the centre, removing thick ribs. Wash leaves and dry well. Stack in batches, roll into cigar shape and slice into fine shreds.
Heat oil in12-inch (30 cm) skillet on medium until shimmery. Add onion, garlic, red pepper, celery, salt and pepper. Sauté 5 minutes, or until tender-crisp. Add collards. Stir 1 minute to wilt slightly. Increase heat to medium-high and cook 3 to 5 minutes, tossing often with tongs, until collards are just tender and still juicy. Adjust salt. Serve hot.
Makes about 3 cups (750 mL). Cynthia David is a Toronto-based food and travel writer who blogs at cynthia-david.com