Take it easy this summer with a craft mocktail
Thinking of a Dry July?
You’re probably not alone. Even the most eager extroverts have to take the occasional break from the busy patio and barbecue season. They’ll find themselves joining designated drivers, pregnant folks and those who just prefer to abstain from the growing demographic of people looking for “craft mocktails” — something with more sophistication than a Shirley Temple but more flavour than the fallback soda water.
Lucky for them, Toronto’s bartenders have enthusiastically responded with creative non-alcoholic drinks made with everything from cocktail bitters to peach puree and fresh herbs to fish sauce. Seriously.
The newly refurbished Maple Leaf Tavern offers a Fruit Cup No. 1, a softer version of a Pimm’s Cup, made with ginger juice, fresh pineapple and a sprinkling of nutmeg, in addition to a cucumber limeade. Savour a strawberry/thyme sour alongside your crispy chicken sliders at Fring’s or, at the Drake Hotel, a snappy, booze-free Farmer’s Market Punch. Even the Shameful Tiki Room — a bar based around the concept of getting as much rum as possible into a glass — offers a Lime Rickey as well as a blended fruity drink aptly named “Designated Driver.”
And, at the Harbord Room, where the social responsibility game is tight, the bar team has devoted a whole section of its menu to “Takin’ It Easy.”
The rate at which those drinks — a French Lemonade, Pineapple Iced Tea and the Good Morning Vietnam — are flying off the list comes as a surprise, even to the bartenders themselves.
“I think the thing we did that might be a little different from most other places is that our ‘Takin’ It Easy’ section is part of the list itself, so it’s not an afterthought,” explained bar manager Josh Lindley. “It’s right there next to the spritzes and next to the three-ounces-of-whisky-in-aglass drinks, so we end up selling quite a lot.”
There may be other factors involved in the popularity of the temperance drinks at the Harbord Room. In part, it’s a reaction to the stiff and sturdy cocktails that have dominated cocktails bars for the past decade, as patrons look to lighten things up, especially in the summer heat. In addition, Lindley says a lot of his guests are grabbing a quick bite before they hit a show and are facing a whole night of watching a band in a busy bar.
“I feel like part of it is just that everyone is growing up and doesn’t necessarily want to drink three drinks and stumble out,” Lindley said. “But they still want something exciting even if they’re pregnant or doing a Sober October.”
At least one of the bar’s non-alcoholic drinks, the Good Morning Vietnam, is nothing if not exciting. Crafted by colleague and fellow bartender Christina Veira, the spicy-sharp, cilantro/mango/fish sauce drink is perfection to those who crave savoury drinks and just can’t face another Bloody Caesar. More than enough adventure, even without the liquor.
And for those who aren’t quite convinced about the value of a Dry July, well, they can always add a shot of tequila. That’s pretty good, too.
Good Morning Vietnam
4 sprigs of cilantro 1/4 oz (7 g) fish sauce 1/2 oz (15 g) Pickapeppa mango hot sauce 3/4 oz (21 g) apple cider vinegar 1/2 oz (15 g) fresh lime juice 4 oz (115 g) natural unsweetened coconut water Salt and crushed green mango on a plate for rimming the glass Rim glass by rubbing a lime around rim and then dipping into a plate of salt and crushed green mango. Add cilantro to bottom of glass and lightly muddle. Add all other ingredients, stir and add ice.