Toronto Star

Discoverin­g hidden oasis at Israel’s northern point

Nahal Iyyon Nature Reserve offers scenic, secluded hikes near border with Lebanon

- ARON HELLER

METULLA, ISRAEL— A frontier town that juts into a hostile neighbouri­ng country and has a long history of militants firing upon it doesn’t seem like a typical place to seek serenity.

But that’s exactly what you will find in Metulla, Israel’s most northerly point, which is engulfed by Lebanon on three sides but is home to a nature reserve.

Barbed-wire and electric fences divide the countries, and signs warn against approachin­g the border at almost every turn.

Lebanese cars and homes can be easily seen just a few hundred metres away.

The yellow flag of the Hezbollah guerrillas flaps in the wind just across the border, a reminder of the bloody war that raged a decade ago and rained rockets on the region.

But all that seems a world away once you enter the Nahal Iyyon Nature Reserve on the northeast corner of town and descend into a narrow canyon along a scenic hiking trail.

The track is carved out alongside a babbling stream that includes romantic pathways shaded by droopy eucalyptus trees and breathtaki­ng waterfalls.

If you are lucky enough to find yourself alone on the trail, let yourself enjoy the silence, interrupte­d only by birds chirping, the occasional tractor humming on the Lebanese road above and water trickling through this tributary to the Jordan River.

The animal life you’ll encounter in-

The animal life you’ll encounter includes frogs, crabs and large, neon-blue dragonflie­s

cludes frogs, crabs and large, neonblue dragonflie­s.

The highlight is reaching the third — and most majestic — waterfall on the trail. The Oven Fall is a 30-metre drop that sends water crashing into a pool below; over time, it has created a distinctiv­e chimney shape in the rock formation.

There’s a perch from the canyon ridge offering a view of the plunging fall and also a shaded platform at the bottom where the mist will cool you off on a hot day.

The reserve is not without its reminders of the area’s troubled history. The entrance is beside a military base and a memorial to 12 soldiers who were killed in a blast during Israel’s lengthy military presence in southern Lebanon.

The trail begins at the remains of the Iyyon Bridge, which was blown up in the late1940s by Jewish militias fighting for an independen­t Israeli state, and passes by the Metulla cemetery, which includes the final resting place of some of the Lebanon conflict’s victims.

Still, it all only seems to add to the tranquilit­y of the 90-minute hike through Israel’s most northerly nature reserve.

If you’ve got more time to spend in Metulla, there are a few quaint bed and breakfasts, some historical sites and the Canada Center — housing Israel’s only official skating rink and hockey centre. But if it is quiet you seek, stick to nature, where the violence of the past is more easily forgotten.

 ?? ARON HELLER PHOTOS/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? The Oven Fall has a 30-metre drop, creating a nice cooling mist.
ARON HELLER PHOTOS/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS The Oven Fall has a 30-metre drop, creating a nice cooling mist.
 ??  ?? The Iyyon stream in Metulla’s Nahal Iyyon Nature Reserve.
The Iyyon stream in Metulla’s Nahal Iyyon Nature Reserve.

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