Toronto Star

Six things to do in County Kerry

- RICK MCGINNIS SPECIAL TO THE STAR

IRELAND— If the weather is right and the sea is friendly, you should be able to get on and off Skellig Michael in a day. That leaves days to enjoy Ireland in general and County Kerry in particular.

Here are a few highlights and recommenda­tions for the trip: Kerry Internatio­nal Dark- Sky Reserve: Tucked between the mountains and the sea, the coast of Kerry near Waterville is uniquely untroubled by light pollution, which makes it a mecca for stargazing. The Kerry Dark Sky Reserve has worked with local councils to install special street lighting that cuts light glare even further, producing an environmen­t that, on clear nights, opens up the heavens like a rolled-out carpet of stars. Inexpensiv­e tours are available, with access to binoculars and high-powered telescopes. Valentia Island: Just across a narrow bridge from Portmagee, this windswept island is full of attraction­s, such as the lighthouse at Cromwell Point and the nearby Tetrapod tracks — petrified footprints left behind on a sandy beach by a primitive amphibian nearly 400 million years ago.

The peak of Geokaun Mountain has been opened up to the public by the shepherd who owns the land, and it offers stunning vistas over the island to the sea and the mainland, while Knightstow­n is probably the prettiest harbour town in this part of Ireland. Butler Arms Hotel: Until actors Mark Hamill and Daisy Ridley stayed here while filming Star Wars: The Force Awakens, the Butler Arms’ most famous guest had been comic actor Charlie Chaplin, a regular here until he bought his own place in town.

More than 130 years in business on the harbour walk in Waterville, Butler Arms is still run by the Huggard family.

Golfers and fly fishermen have stayed here for generation­s, and with its tweedy vibe and hunting prints, you expect to find retired pro golfer Arnold Palmer sitting in one of its many bars or lounges. Valentia Island Ice Cream: Joe and Caroline Daly set up their ice cream business in an outbuildin­g of their dairy farm near the centre of Valentia Island several years ago. From the patio of their newly expanded café, you can gaze down to the sea over the fields where their Friesian cows produce the milk.

Trinity City Hotel: Located within walking distance of Temple Bar, St. Stephen’s Green, Trinity College and countless other Dublin landmarks, this recently refreshed 198-room hotel is probably the most convenient place to stay if you just have a day to enjoy the city.

The lobby evokes an Andalusian nightclub and the most striking rooms are probably the ones in the loft of the old fire station. Killarney National Park: Every turn of the road reveals a ridiculous­ly picturesqu­e view in this vast parkland of more than 10,117 hectares.

There’s Muckross House, a stately mansion, and Ross Castle, a medieval ruin, set among forests and lakes between mountains, with herds of deer to enhance the views even further.

The effect is nothing less than a John Constable landscape brought to life.

Nearby Killarney has plenty of nightlife, if you’re tired of the pastoral, and loads of accommodat­ions, with roads lined with hotels right up to the gates of the park. Rick McGinnis was hosted by Failte Ireland, which didn’t review or approve this story.

 ?? RICK MCGINNIS ?? A piper plays in front of the ruins of Ross Castle on the grounds of Killarney National Park in County Kerry, Ireland.
RICK MCGINNIS A piper plays in front of the ruins of Ross Castle on the grounds of Killarney National Park in County Kerry, Ireland.
 ?? WILLIAM BEAN/SKELLIG STAR PARTY ?? The area has almost no light pollution, making it ideal for stargazing.
WILLIAM BEAN/SKELLIG STAR PARTY The area has almost no light pollution, making it ideal for stargazing.
 ?? RICK MCGINNIS ?? A historic shop sits on the main street of Knightstow­n on Valentia Island in County Kerry.
RICK MCGINNIS A historic shop sits on the main street of Knightstow­n on Valentia Island in County Kerry.
 ?? BUTLER ARMS HOTEL ?? The Butler Arms Hotel in Waterville, County Kerry, hosted Mark Hamill and Daisy Ridley when they were filming Star Wars: The Force Awakens.
BUTLER ARMS HOTEL The Butler Arms Hotel in Waterville, County Kerry, hosted Mark Hamill and Daisy Ridley when they were filming Star Wars: The Force Awakens.
 ?? RICK MCGINNIS ?? Joe and Caroline Daly serve their own ice cream during the summer season from their café on Valentia Island.
RICK MCGINNIS Joe and Caroline Daly serve their own ice cream during the summer season from their café on Valentia Island.
 ?? TRINITY CITY HOTEL ?? A room in the loft of the old fire station, part of Trinity City Hotel in downtown Dublin.
TRINITY CITY HOTEL A room in the loft of the old fire station, part of Trinity City Hotel in downtown Dublin.

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