Toronto Star

RED WINE TO HELP YOU BEAT THE HEAT

When the sun is beating down and the mercury is hovering around 30 C, you want to drink something cold — not vaguely cool or room temperatur­e. Which counts red wine out, right? Wrong, actually. Some red wines taste amazing chilled. You just need to know w

- Carolyn Evans Hammond

Chiarli Castelvetr­o Lambrusco, Italy (LCBO 604, $9.95)

This light-bodied, fizzy Lambrusco is a gorgeous example of a red wine that tastes terrific cold — as in straight-out-of-the-ice beer cold. Why? For a few reasons. Chilling lowers the perception of sweetness, making this sticky style seem round and refreshing instead of sugary. The slight effervesce­nce coupled with the cool temperatur­e amps up the refreshmen­t higher than any still wine could go. And, importantl­y, Lambrusco has the softest, gentlest tannins of almost any red wine on the planet, which is key because chilling amplifies tannin. The tannin amplificat­ion is why bold red wines can’t be chilled without tasting as tough as old boots.

Score: 90+

2015 13th Street Winery Burger Blend, VQA Niagara Peninsula, (LCBO 419945, $13.95 till Aug. 14, reg. $14.95)

Love this blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir served cold. Ripe, just-picked blueberrie­s, blackberri­es and red plum flavours swirl around, delivering a mouthful of joy juice. Chilling completely hides the wine’s 13-per-cent alcohol, so all you get is a smooth whack of fruit. And because Gamay and Pinot Noir grapes are naturally low in tannin, and winemaker Jean-Pierre Colas chose fully ripe berries and pressed them gently to make this wine, the mouth feel is quite velvety rather than tough. Simply put, this dry red served cold is any backyard barbecuer’s dream.

Score: 89

2014 Cave Spring Gamay VQA Niagara Escarpment, Ontario (LCBO 228569, $15.95)

Shining pale ruby in the glass, this local gem served cold offers a clean, lip-smacking lick of red and blackberri­es. The deep chill doesn’t toughen this wine’s structure at all because it’s a well-made, ripe Gamay, which, as noted above, is naturally low in tannin. And the 13-per-cent alcohol is completely hidden beneath the clean slip of satiny fruit, shot through with mouth-watering acidity. Dry, balanced and bright, this is an easy choice to serve with a plate of salty ham in the sunshine. Lazing the day away, glass in hand: optional.

Score: 89

2014 Meiomi Pinot Noir, California (Vintages 130138, $26.95)

This crazy popular Pinot Noir can be served well-chilled and still taste smooth and sumptuous. Why? Because it’s got 12 g/L of residual sugar, which is a lot for a $26 red wine. That sweetness glosses over the tannin present in the wine — so no astringenc­y appears, just a full-bodied wash of wild blueberry pie. You know, the homemade kind you find in cottage country. The mocha finish is nice too. Beware though, at 14.5-per-cent alcohol, it’s dangerousl­y easy to guzzle because chilling hides alcoholic heat. Serve with caution — and maybe some grilled salmon in good company.

Score: 91

Carlo Rossi California Red, California (LCBO 280644, $26.45/3000mL)

This wine is still a steal — and thus, one of the best wines I can think of to keep in the fridge all summer long. Why? Because at just 11.5-per-cent alcohol, you can drink it with abandon. It quenches like a thing possessed, tasting like a mouthful of just-picked berry goodness. And because the perception of sweetness lessens when wine is served cold, the 22 g/L of sugar disappears while glossing over the soft, ripe tannins, so the texture is silky smooth. Best gulped with guac and tortillas. You know, in lieu of sangria, but a bit drier.

Score: 88

 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??
 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada