FIVE DELICIOUS DROPS FOR AUTUMN
In autumn, cravings for creamier whites and richer reds kick in. For me, a cool, crisp glass of say, Sauvignon Blanc, doesn’t hold the same appeal on nippier nights as it might on a hot summer day. So I tasted the 121 wines released Saturday in Vintages t
2007 Villa Cafaggio Cortaccio, IGT Toscana, Italy (Vintages 20966 $25.95) This nine-yearold pure Cabernet Sauvignon has matured beautifully and is now in its prime. The fruit tastes polished to a high sheen and slips across the palate with satin suggestions of ripe blueberry, cherry and plum as well as cassis, dried sage and bitter orange zest. Gorgeous juice that just begs to be served with a tangle of tagliatelle tossed with herbed, wild mushrooms, drizzled with a good olive oil and sprinkled with Parmigiano-Reggiano. Score: 92+
2011 Stoney Ridge Excellence Chardonnay, VQA Niagara Peninsula, ON (Vintages 254243 $17.95) Warm, lush aromas of toasted coconut and almond lead to rich, glossy flavours of tropical fruit imbued with roasted nuts, toasted pastry and crème brûlée. Terrific texture, focus and length. I like this generous wooded Chardonnay best with butternut ravioli in a sage brown butter, but it also works well with roasted poultry and mashed potato, or crispy coconut shrimp. Versatile and delicious drop that could easily sell for more than its current price. Score: 91
2011 Unanime Gran Vino Tinto, Uco Valley, Mendoza Argentina (Vintages 466938 $29.95) Made with 60 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 25 per cent Malbec and 15 per cent Cabernet Franc, this tightly knit red offers a thick tapestry of dark flavours. Think black forest fruit, tobacco, dark chocolate, coffee, earth, toast, hazelnut and pepper all spun together while a spike of bright red fruit from the Cabernet Franc adds lift and finesse. Gorgeous stuff and well worth the $30 or so it costs. Drop dead delicious with pan-seared, broiled or grilled beef. Score: 93+
2012 Waterkloof Circumstance Syrah, WO Stellenbosch, South Africa (Vintages 455782 $22.95) This inky Rhonestyle red from the biodynamic vineyards of Waterkloof starts with muted aromas of warm berries and plum, violet and black pepper before slipping across the palate with surprising elegance and delicacy. The roasted red meat and dried plum core is gently laced with raspberry-floral-iodine edges. Great precision and poise. Only 8,176 bottles were produced so snap it up to serve with braised meat or hearty casserole. Score: 91
2011 Bischofliche Weingüter Trier Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany (Vintages 670752 $23.95) Few things are more satisfying than a nibble of cheese with a sip of succulent wine in the cooler months. Not necessarily a dessert wine such as icewine or Sauternes, but rather something medium sweet and complex such as this fine number from the Mosel. Sumptuous flavours of lanolin, honey, white flowers, lemon tart — shot through with lively, mouth-watering acidity — season the palate beautifully between each salty bite. It also goes well with pumpkin pie, should you be pondering what to serve with dessert on Thanksgiving. Score: 92
Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer. She is also a London-trained sommelier and two-time bestselling wine book author. Reach her at carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com.