Toronto Star

Exploring the history of Canada’s most remote archipelag­o

Haida Gwaii offers unique views of ancient rainforest­s and serene, inspiring beaches

- CHARMAINE NORONHA SPECIAL TO THE STAR

HAIDA GWAII, B.C.— The “Islands of the People” consists of more than 150 islands, but only two of the area’s largest islands are developed. Graham Island in the north has six official communitie­s and most of the inhabitant­s and infrastruc­ture. Moresby Island, to its south, is home to one community, Sandspit. Here are five must-see Haida Gwaii spots. Old Massett Masset, the largest of the 150-plus islands, is a small fishing village on Graham Island. To its north is Old Massett, which sits on the site of three traditiona­l Haida villages and is one of two villages where the Haida Nation regrouped in the late 1800s after smallpox decimated the population in surroundin­g villages. It’s the administra­tive seat of the Council of the Haida Nation, and is home to about 800 Haida. Tow Hill Tow Hill, along the northweste­rn boundary of Naikoon Provincial Park, is about 10 kilometres east of Masset. Tow Hill is a large, isolated volcanic plug, and the hill rises 122 metres and towers over North Beach. Its face consists of basalt columns of rock formed from eruptions of molten lava about 2 million years ago. Hike through the ferns and moss-carpeted grounds to make your way to the active blowhole and witness the waves shoot up. Gwaii Haanas Massive moss-draped cedar and Sitka spruce tower above the Haida people’s ancient carved poles and fallen longhouses on the mystical rainforest islands of Gwaii Haanas. Spot one or more of the many bald eagles that hover around the wild beaches, along with whales, porpoises and sea lions. Once you step on these lands, you feel a sense of serenity while gaining a sense of the source of the Haida’s cultural inspiratio­n. SGang Gwaay Less than 10 kilometres from Rose Harbour lies the island of SGang Gwaay where the remains of the ancient Haida village of Ninstints can be found. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, SGang Gwaay contains the remnants of large cedar longhouses and carved mortuary and memorial poles, which illustrate the art and way of life of the Haida. The village is now uninhabite­d, save for watchers who protect the region’s remains. Skidegate Skidegate is home to the award-winning Haida Heritage Centre, which houses the Haida Gwaii Museum. The centre displays Haida culture and history, restored totem poles and a natural history gallery of Haida Gwaii birds, mammals and fossils. Take a tour of the six contempora­ry poles that stand outside the complex for a better understand­ing of the archipelag­o’s history, along with the history of its people. Charmaine Noronha was hosted by Destinatio­n British Columbia and its partners, which didn’t review or approve this story.

 ?? CHARMAINE NORONHA ?? This view rewards hikers at the lookout platform at the summit of the moderate Towhill Hike in Naikoon Provincial Park.
CHARMAINE NORONHA This view rewards hikers at the lookout platform at the summit of the moderate Towhill Hike in Naikoon Provincial Park.
 ?? CHARMAINE NORONHA ?? Haida artist Chief Jim Hart explains the figures and carvings that are on this totem pole, which recounts the history of Canada’s residentia­l schools.
CHARMAINE NORONHA Haida artist Chief Jim Hart explains the figures and carvings that are on this totem pole, which recounts the history of Canada’s residentia­l schools.
 ?? CHARMAINE NORNOHA ?? Hand-carved canoes overlook n front of the Haida Heritage Centre.
CHARMAINE NORNOHA Hand-carved canoes overlook n front of the Haida Heritage Centre.
 ?? CHARMAINE NORONHA ?? A stroll through Tanu, T’aanuu Lnagaay reveals a lush landscape.
CHARMAINE NORONHA A stroll through Tanu, T’aanuu Lnagaay reveals a lush landscape.
 ?? NEIL EVER OSOBORNE ?? Carved memorial poles dot the ancient Haida village of Ninstints.
NEIL EVER OSOBORNE Carved memorial poles dot the ancient Haida village of Ninstints.

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