Toronto Star

WASHINGTON WINES ARE A WINNER

- Carolyn Evans Hammond Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer. She is also a London-trained sommelier and two-time bestsellin­g wine book author. Reach her at carolyn@carolyneva­nshammond.com.

Washington state wines are on fire right now — for good reason. That state’s lush, saturated reds and creamy, satin-rich whites compare closely with those of California at a fraction of the price. And dialed-in, value-conscious wine lovers know it. The LCBO sold about $9 million worth of Washington wine last year, up 65 per cent over the previous year — and the upward trend shows no sign of slowing. I sampled a slew of wines from this state to find you five of the best. Because, you know, I’ve got your back.

2014 Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay

Columbia Valley (LCBO 462846 $17.95 available in store and online) From grapes grown in the dry Columbia Valley during the very warm 2014 vintage comes this full-bodied, barrel-fermented Chardonnay. Wafting aromas of crème brûlée lead to a generous, tonguecoat­ing attack of richness. The tropical-f ruit core of pineapple and mixed citrus glazed with allusions of caramelize­d sugar, warm nutmeg and toasted oak offer instant appeal. This is a gutsy but well-balanced little number that goes very well with fettuccine alfredo, chicken Caesar salad and your favourite cable-knit sweater on a chilly autumn evening.

Score: 88

2013 Seven Falls Cabernet Sauvignon

Wahluke Slope, Washington ( Vintages 360222, released Nov. 26, $20.95 in store only) The Wahluke Slope — one of the warmest, driest sub-regions in the state — produces gorgeously ripe, deeply-fruited red wines, and this bottle is a fine example. Expect plush aromas and flavours of black cherry, blackcurra­nt liqueur, plum, vanilla, cedar and chocolate that are intricatel­y woven together. And the extra-dense, brushed flannel texture from the finely grained tannin holds the flavour in place for ages. Pour it with roasted, salted meat for a real treat.

Score: 90

2014 Columbia Crest H3 Cabernet Sauvignon

Horse Heaven Hills, Washington (Vintages Essential 210047 $19.95 in store and online) When you taste this, you won’t be surprised that it’s the bestsellin­g wine from Washington in Ontario. From Horse Heaven Hills, a sub-region known for making suave, seamless wines, this rich red offers more concentrat­ion, complexity and length than most sub$20 Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Lashings of superripe red and black berries shot through with cocoa, granite, toasted oak, black tea, and red and black licorice keeps you riveted. This smooth sipper works as well as solo with maybe a few nuts as it does with hearty braised dishes.

Score: 91

2014 The Pundit Syrah

Columbia Valley Washington ( Vintages 462945, released Nov. 26, $39.95) Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington collaborat­ed with Rhone valley winemaker Michel Gassier and French oenology consultant Philippe Cambie to create this crazy good, Rhone-esque red. Sundrenche­d and delicious, this big red tastes dense, deep and dark with savoury underpinni­ngs. Broad yet silky flavours of salted chocolate, bonfire, black earth and damson unfurl slowly and taper toward suggestion­s of black olive, tobacco leaf, allspice and clove on the finish. This well-priced pour is drinking well now but can improve for up to 20 years if properly cellared. Drink with rib steak and potatoes.

Score: 93

2013 Col Solare,

Red Mountain, Washington ( Vintages 20487, $99.95 in store only) Col Solare on Red Mountain — owned by Marchesi Antinori of Tuscany and Chateau St. Michelle of Washington — shows the majesty that can be teased from the vines of the region. Instantly mouth-coating, polished and almost liqueurlik­e, this bottle has so much going on — cassis, cocoa, tobacco, freshly turned earth, cherry pie, black plum puree, pipe tobacco and more. The layered flavours taste harmonious, the structure is superbly balanced, and the effect: swoonworth­y. It’s drinking well now but will improve for another 40 years if properly cellared. Drink it with roast beef.

Score: 96

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