Toronto Star

SIX UNIQUE SPECIALTIE­S FROM DELICIOUS DORDOGNE

- RENÉE S. SUEN

NOUVELLE-AQUITAINE, FRANCE— This region might be best known for its quality Bordeaux wines, but its food is an epicurean’s paradise.

To the east of Bordeaux, the department of Dordogne (historical­ly known as Périgord) is known for its gourmet foods. With more than 2,000 years of history and numerous regionally protected products, there’s a plethora of choices to keep any food lover happy.

Truffles

Native to the Dordogne, the black Périgord truffle is coveted by gourmands worldwide for its complex aroma. From November to March, the expensive delicacy can be purchased for a fair price from Perigueux’s Place St-Louis market and Sarlat’s Saturday market. Connoisseu­rs of the black diamond are known to visit Sorges, about 19 kilometres northeast of Perigueux, to learn about the fungus at its charming truffle ecomuseum and area truffle farms. Or attend Sarlat’s truffle festival on the third weekend of January.

Foie gras

Despite its controvers­y, the traditiona­l skill of force-feeding geese and ducks is still practised in Périgord. Foie gras, a.k.a., fattened goose or duck liver, is served at most restaurant­s. There’s even a Route du Foie Gras for those wishing to meet the more than 60 producers of the specialty. Look for products labelled “Indication géographiq­ue protégée” (IGP) that guarantees the high-quality product is strictly from Périgord.

Dordogne strawberri­es

Delicate, candy-sweet and a treasure of the region, the excellent, large-fleshed Dordogne strawberri­es are the only strawberri­es protected by the IGP geographic status. Thanks to ideal temperatur­es and soils, the region enjoys a long season that lasts from April to October. The main strawberry varieties, including Gariguette and Darselect in the spring, and Mara des Bois and Charlotte in the fall, can be found at most markets.

Traditiona­l macarons

Ursuline nuns brought the traditiona­l macaron to St-Émilion in the early 17th century. Although they’re made with the same ingredient­s — egg whites, sugar and almond flour — as their gussied-up sandwiched Parisian cousins, the rustic confection is chewier, straddling a soft biscotti and almond cake. Many shops sell traditiona­l macarons, but the original recipe (a carefully guarded secret that’s only passed down to the business’ successor) is only available at Les Macarons de St-Émilion.

Caviar

A pioneer in river sturgeon breeding in Aquitaine, Domaine Huso in Neuvic sur l’Isle is one of three production sites in the Dordogne that specialize in high-quality caviar. Using methods that create minimal environmen­tal impact, the prestigiou­s products are processed and packaged. The 7.6-hectare farm is open to visitors seven days a week. Tours of the facilities are available, but pre-booking is required.

Walnuts

Since the Paleolithi­c era (with evidence found in Cro-Magnon habitation­s from 17,000 years ago), walnuts have been widely celebrated for their many uses. At area ecomuseums or walnut-oil mills including Moulin de la Veyssière, you’ll find products such as vin de noix, a sweet and rich liqueur made from the green nuts, walnut flour and walnut oil that’s been pressed from cooked nutmeal. Look for appellatio­n d’origine contrôlée (AOC)-certified Périgord walnuts.

Renée S. Suen was hosted by Atout France, the Aquitaine Tourism Board and Air France, which didn’t review or approve this story.

 ?? RENÉE S. SUEN ?? Sarlat restaurant­s such as L’Entrepôte serve foie gras in a variety of ways.
RENÉE S. SUEN Sarlat restaurant­s such as L’Entrepôte serve foie gras in a variety of ways.

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