A colourful twist on a familiar fruit
Fuzzy, yellow-hued variety boasts more depth of flavour, lasts longer than green cousin
I tasted my first kiwi in 1987 at the Western Fair in London, Ont.
The hairy, egg-shaped fruit with soft green flesh and a unique tropical flavour, originally called Chinese gooseberry, had just arrived from New Zealand.
PR spokesperson extraordinaire Sheila Swerling-Puritt was charged with introducing the fruit across the country. Since most of us had never seen or eaten a kiwi, she handed out tiny holders and plastic spoons and showed us how to cut off the top and scoop the flesh like a soft-boiled egg.
Kiwis quickly became a colourful addition to fruit salads, yet they’ve never vaulted into our top 10 list as they have in many other countries, says Glen Arrowsmith, North American market manager for the Zespri brand. In fact, the kiwi sits at No. 21 on our list of favourite fruits.
That may be about to change as more and more Canadians discover Zespri’s SunGold variety, with its thin, smooth skin and almost translucent flesh.
Arrowsmith says SunGolds have grown 270 per cent in terms of volume here in the past two years, and he sees unlimited potential for the golden variety, which first arrived here in 2013.
“We think it’s the tropical sweet flavour, the smooth, juicy texture and the sweet-sour balance that gives it more depth of flavour,” says Arrowsmith, who recently moved to Los Angeles, where his kids delight in introducing golden kiwis to their classmates.
“SunGold remains in ready-to-eat condition for longer than the green Hayward variety,” he adds, “so you can have it in the fruit bowl longer and get a perfect eating experience for several more days.”
In another 10 years, Arrowsmith predicts we’ll be eating red-fleshed kiwis, which look promising in New Zealand, home to the world’s largest kiwi-breeding program.
He’s also seen yellow-fleshed kiwis with red centres and green kiwis with red centres. They already grow naturally in their Chinese birthplace.
“I’ve personally eaten red kiwis with a magical sweet berry flavour,” he says. “Though they look appealing, the key is to have a consistent flavour experience as well. They’re coming, but it takes a long time to establish production.”
No matter their colour, kiwis are one of the world’s most nutrientdense fruits and they make the perfect snack. Just cut in half at the equator, take a spoon and scoop.
Buy and store
New Zealand SunGold kiwis are available from May until late December. Italian-grown golds have already arrived and should be available for another few months. Green kiwis are available year-round from various countries. Choose firm, unblemished fruit. To check ripeness, hold kiwi in your palm and squeeze gently. A ripe kiwi will yield to slight pressure like an avocado or peach. Even when still fairly firm, SunGold kiwis will be per- fect as they soften from the inside out.
To ripen, leave out at room temperature for three to seven days.
Store ripe kiwifruit in the refrigerator up to two weeks.
Green kiwis contain an enzyme that causes an allergic reaction in some people. You may not have the same issue with gold kiwis but check with your doctor.
Prep Rinse and eat! For a snack, cut in half and scoop out the flesh or cut lengthwise into quarters.
For salads and other recipes, peel and cut into circles or cubes.
Most people find the skin too leathery, though it is perfectly edible.
Kiwis lose their bright colour when heated, so add near the end of cooking.
Kiwis contain an enzyme, actinidin, that acts as a meat tenderizer. To use, mash a few slices with a fork, mix with meat and let sit at least 20 minutes before cooking to improve taste and texture.
Don’t use fresh kiwi in gelatin desserts as the gelatin won’t set.
Serve
Gold and green kiwis add nutrition, taste, colour and natural sweetness to smoothies.
Chop into salsa or try Zespri’s new cranberry relish recipe. Make a Kiwi-tini with vodka for holiday parties.
Kiwi Shrimp Cocktail
Star Tested This light, colourful Zespri appetizer is a refreshing change from traditional shrimp cocktails.
4 gold kiwis 1/2 cup (125 mL) Greek yogurt 6 large fresh basil leaves 1 ripe medium avocado, pitted and peeled 1 tbsp (15 mL) fresh lime juice 2 tbsp (30 mL) avocado oil or olive oil 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt 20 jumbo shrimp (1 lb/450 g), boiled, peeled and chilled Garnish: 1 lime, cut in wedges Peel three of the kiwis and slice thinly. Set aside.
Halve and scoop out flesh from remaining kiwi. Place in food processor with yogurt, basil, avocado flesh, lime juice, oil and salt. Process until smooth or use immersion blender.
Divide mixture evenly among four martini glasses. Line each glass with a single layer of reserved kiwi slices.
Hang five shrimp over the edge of each glass (tail facing out) and garnish with fresh basil. Serve with lime wedges. Makes 4 servings. Cynthia David is a Toronto-based food and travel writer who blogs at cynthiadavid.com.