‘Modest-wear’ hits mainstream shelves
Japanese retailer Uniqlo readies to debut a new line of apparel at both of its Toronto locations
Japanese apparel retailer Uniqlo will debut a line of modest-wear in Canada in February, including hijabs and abayas, the long black dress worn by women in Saudi Arabia, and pieces inspired by the baju kurung, a tunic-and-pants outfit worn widely in South East Asia.
“It’s really for everybody, but in terms of a more specific demographic, it’s for anyone who sort of wants that more modest esthetic,” said Hana Tajima, the British designer behind the line.
The collection, for spring and summer 2017, will land at Uniqlo’s two Canadian stores, at Toronto’s Eaton Centre and Yorkdale Mall, on Feb. 24.
“Uniqlo really pays attention to consumer demand and there is a consumer demand for modest-wear and we are happy to oblige,” Uniqlo spokesperson Kat Adams said.
“This is such a diverse market, we are very hopeful that it will receive a positive reaction.”
Uniqlo has been selling modest-wear in other markets since 2015, and it’s not the only fashion retailer to do so.
Since 2014, designer fashion houses including Dolce & Gabbana and DKNY, and fast-fashion retailers Zara and Mango have launched modest-wear collections of varying sizes and prices.
Market research from the advisory firm DinarStandard in 2015 reported that global Muslim consumer spending on food and lifestyle reached $1.8 trillion (U.S.) in 2014 and is projected to reach $2.6 trillion in 2020.
“I think it’s brilliant,” said Maureen Atkinson, senior partner, research insights, J.C. Williams Global retail advisers.
“I think there is a large-enough base that it’s a good business decision. I would like to think that most Canadians would support it, but I think there are those who are offended because people don’t dress modestly and (there are those who) are offended because people do dress modestly.”
The full Uniqlo modest-wear collection includes 30 items in 81 colours and patterns and will be available across 15 countries.
The pieces range in price in Canada from $7.90 for a headband to $39.90 for a hijab and up to $79.90 for a long dress.
The pieces in the spring-summer collection include long skirts and pants and tunics that can be put together like the baju kurung of South East Asia; a long black dress with a high neckline and long sleeves inspired by the Saudi abaya; as well as foundation pieces, like inner hijabs to wear under a hijab or while playing sports, to keep hair in place.
The collection does not include burkas, which cover women from head to toe, or niqabs, which cover the face.
“We started in South East Asia, with the local markets there,” Tajima said. “From then, it’s really grown. Each season we brought it to new countries and the response has been really fantastic, not just from the Muslim market.”
She said the clothing crosses religious and ethnic lines because it is comfortable, loose-fitting and stylish.
“Really it’s about creating pieces that are versatile and allow people to interpret the idea of modesty for themselves,” said Tajima, who grew up in a small English village and became a Muslim at the age of 18.
She said it’s hard to tell if modest-wear is having an impact on fashion generally.
“There is definitely for me a sort of trend toward this more androgynous style or looser silhouettes, and both are sort of feeding into one another in a way that is really interesting.”
Natasha Bakht, an associate professor at the University of Ottawa’s faculty of law, who is working on a book on the rights of niqab-wearing women, said the idea of modest-wear sold at a fashion retailer shouldn’t be controversial.
“It should be celebrated as another marker of diversity in our society,” Bakht said. “Frankly, I think it’s good business. It’s really tapping into a market that many people are recognizing. Fashion and modesty are not mutually exclusive.”