Steamed bass a simple way to celebrate
This easy seafood dish is great for any day, not just Chinese New Year feasts
Ask most chefs in a North American city about their cooking style and usually they’ll say it’s rooted in French or Italian technique; skills such as deglazing, sautéing and making soffrittos or mirepoix.
But cookbook author and culinary instructor Kian Lam Kho argues that Chinese cooking should be given the same weight when it comes to forming the foundation of any cook, professional or home.
“Chinese cooking technique influences a lot of other cuisines in terms of ingredients like soy sauce and fermented soy beans. A lot of other Asian cuisines like Thai, Vietnamese and Malaysian cooking are based on Chinese technique as well with stirfrying and braising,” Kho says from his home in New York.
“Just like if you understand French technique, you can understand a lot of European cooking, if you understand Chinese cooking, you can execute a lot of other Asian cuisines.”
In Toronto alone, think of all the non-Chinese restaurants doing their own spins on steamed bass such as Momofuku or 416 Snack Bar, dishes that use soy sauce as marinades or sauce bases. Or heck, think of all the juice bars using goji berries commonly found in Chinese soups, desserts and in smoothie bowls.
Beyond Chinatown, Chinese cooking is as entrenched in Toronto dining as French or Italian.
So in planning for Chinese New Year next week, I highly recommend picking up Kho’s 2015 cookbook, Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees ($45, Potter). It’s a useful tome as it details a dozen of China’s culinary regions, gives step-by-step guides on techniques such as frying and braising, and explains the tools and ingredients commonly found in a Chinese kitchen.
Even if you don’t cook at home there is` neat historical food info that’s good to read on its own as supermarkets begin stocking more and more ingredients catering to the GTA’s growing Chinese communities.
The dish I suggest making is the classic steamed striped bass, dressed in delicate slivers of fresh green onions and ginger, then sprinkled with an addictively sweet and salty cooked soy sauce. It’s easy to make, looks impressive and is a staple at many Chinese New Year feasts both in restaurants and in homes.
“We always had steamed fish for Chinese New Year,” says Kho, who was born in Malaysia but whose family is originally from the Fujian (formerly Fukien) region of China. “The recipe in the book is the Cantonese version but sometimes we make the Fukien version where instead of scallions we use pickled vegetables and sour plum. It’s one of my favourites.”
Striped bass can be found swimming in the tanks at Chinese supermarkets where the fishmongers will automatically clean it for you.
It’s vital to get a whole fish, bones and all. “It’s such a simple dish that the bones create a wonderful umami flavour that a fillet cannot,” Kho says.
“The freshness of the fish is also very important. The sauce is so simple that it can’t cover a stale fish.”
It is also a Chinese tradition to serve the firm and silky cheek meat of the fish — the best part — to someone you love.
As Kho writes in his book, the simple steaming technique covered in cooking this fish keeps the ingredients’ natural flavours and can be used for other meats, tofu and vegetables. It is a technique that once mastered, you’ll be using it as much as a sear or sauté.
Cantonese Steamed Striped Bass
Star Tested A whole bass can last up to two days in the fridge. If striped bass is unavailable, Kho suggests using flounder, red snapper or grouper. The sauce really makes the dish so in the recipe below I doubled the amount, allowing extra sauce to be poured over white rice.
If you don’t have a wok, use a pot that’s big enough to hold the tray the fish is cooking in. A metal trivet, which can be picked up for $2 at Chinese grocers, is required to prop up the tray while the fish is steaming so it doesn’t touch the boiling water. Alternatively, a small metal bowl turned upside down can be used. 1-1/2 lb to 2 lb (700 g to 900 g) whole striped bass, cleaned 2 tbsp (30 mL) plus 1/4 cup (60 mL) Shoaxing rice wine, dry white wine or dry sherry 3 thin slices fresh ginger 1/4 cup (60 mL) light soy sauce 1/8 tsp (1/2 mL) ground white pepper 2 tsp (10 mL) granulated sugar 5 tbsp (75 mL) vegetable oil 4 stalks green onion, julienned 2-inch (5 cm) piece fresh ginger, peeled and julienned Finely minced red chili, optional With a sharp knife, make three slashes about an inch apart from each other along body of fish on both sides. Place fish on a heatproof tray or plate. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons wine over fish and place ginger slices on top of fish. Set aside.
Place trivet in centre of wok. Fill wok with about 5 cups of water. If Phoenix Claws and Jade Trees. using a pot, add enough water to reach an inch deep. Bring to a rapid boil over medium-high heat. Place tray with fish on trivet.
Cover and steam for about 12 to 15 minutes or until flesh on thickest part of fish is opaque and easily separates from bone.
While fish is cooking, in a saucepan, combine soy sauce,1/4 cup wine, sugar and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat then keep warm over low heat until ready to serve.
In another saucepan, heat oil on medium-high heat until it starts to smoke or reaches about 395 F (200 C).
When fish is cooked, discard ginger slices and carefully transfer to serving plate.
Pour soy sauce mixture over fish. Garnish with green onion, ginger and chili, if using. Drizzle hot oil (careful, it will splatter a bit) all over fish. Serve immediately with steamed white rice.
Makes 2 to 4 servings. karonliu@thestar.ca