Toronto Star

FIVE ELEGANT AND EXHILARATI­NG ARGENTINEA­N MALBECS

- Carolyn Evans Hammond Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer. She is also a London-trained sommelier and two-time bestsellin­g wine book author. Reach her at carolyn@carolyneva­nshammond.com.

If you think all Argentinea­n Malbecs are big, bold fruit-bombs with as much restraint as Trump on Twitter, think again. That hot South American country is stepping up its game with bottles teeming with finesse and complexity. Try these five outstandin­g value 90-plus offerings to see what I mean.

2015 Trivento Special Selection Fair Trade Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO 160994 $12.20 in stores and online) This killer red is not only dirt cheap, it trumped many more expensive Malbecs tasted for this piece. It glides across the palate luminously, with vibrant berry fruit edged with shy dried herbs — wild sage, bay leaf and lavender. Then, the flavours taper to a smooth, refined finish. Love the balance of succulence and delicacy here. Very stylish drop. What’s more, it’s certified fair trade, which ensures dignified wages and fair working conditions for the men and women behind this wine. Score: 92

2016 Trapiche Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO 501551 $10.45 in stores and online) What this gorgeous red lacks in complexity, it more than makes up for with delicious purity of fruit. It tastes exactly like Grandma’s best ever raspberry jam from berries she picked by hand and bottled lovingly. The jam you pull out mid-winter and presto it’s summer again. It’s like that — but dry and light-tasting with a moderate 12.5 per cent alcohol. Fresh and wild tasting with impeccable balance. In short, this 10-buck red is seriously fun to drink. Score: 91+

2012 Finca La Escuela El Limo Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (Vintages 479600 $22.95 in stores only) Hitting shelves Feb. 4, this is well worth snapping up. It’s an alluring Malbec with all the full-fruited depth and power of old school Malbec as well as the delicacy and complexity of a modern expression. The sweet perfume of menthol and tobacco, wild cherry and cassis leads to fleshy-but-electric attack of red and black fruit. Then, that ripe core unspools with dried herbs, cigar box, violet and a whisper of eucalyptus before leaving a chalky texture on the finish. Score: 92+

2015 La Posta Pizzella Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (Vintages 166298 $15.95 in stores) Though this bottle was released in Vintages in August, there’s lots left on shelves. It’s well worth recommendi­ng because it’s drinking beautifull­y right now. The gorgeous floral-berry nose leads to expansive, high-toned flavours of raspberry and red plum that give way to hints of creamy dark chocolate, coffee, spice cake, cardamom and citrus peel. It’s juicy and opulent with freshness, lift and charm. The finish is smooth, polished and long. Can’t go wrong with a bottle of this juice on hand. Score: 91

2015 Alamos Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO 295139, $15.45 in stores and online) This label’s depiction of mountains pays homage to the fact growing grapes at higher altitudes can preserve freshness and elegance in a wine — without compromisi­ng flavour. Made from grapes grown 900 to 1,500 metres above sea level, this rich-but-refreshing Malbec is chock-full of blueberry and blackberry liqueur flavours edged with graphite, all of which is lifted with spiralling bright cherry-almond delicacy. Excellent wine for the money. Score: 90+

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