A farewell gift from Hopgood’s Foodliner
The Feb. 2 staff meal at Hopgood’s Foodliner on Roncesvalles Ave. was bittersweet.
It was the restaurant’s fifth anniversary but it was also its last week in business. A month before, chef Geoff Hopgood had announced his east-coast inspired restaurant would close the first week of February.
“There’s more I want to accomplish than being in the kitchen five days a week and being married to a restaurant seven days a week,” said Hopgood, who with his wife anticipates the arrival of a second child — a daughter — at the end of the month.
“With our first child I was really busy with the restaurant. I think we set out to do what we wanted to do with this place, but I want to find balance in life.”
Hopgood’s Foodliner opened in Feb. 2012 to the delight of foodies and critics.
Hopgood, after all, previously ran the perpetually packed kitchen at Hoof Café — the sister restaurant of the Black Hoof — where it wasn’t unusual to see people waiting an hour for marrow doughnuts and suckling eggs Benedict on a Saturday morning.
The cafe eventually became the Cocktail Bar and meanwhile Hopgood branched out on his own, naming the restaurant after his family’s chain of Foodliner grocery stores in the Maritimes.
The menu reflected the food he ate growing up — Halifax donairs, seared scallops and crab dip, but it wasn’t solely tied to the Atlantic. The chef won over the Star’s restaurant critic with his Southern-style chicken with grits.
As a fond farewell, Hopgood has shared the recipe for one of his most popular items: east-coast classic molasses bread.
A recipe he took from his mom, who got it from a neighbour.
“It should be chewy on the crust and moist in the middle. It’s a classic brown bread with a little more sweetness,” he says. “My favourite thing to do is serve it with bacon, tomato, mayonnaise and black pepper. We’ve used the bread to make French toast, or just eat it fresh out of the oven with butter.”
Hopgood Foodliner’s Molasses Bread
Star Tested This recipe calls for rolled oats but quick oats can be used as well. If using quick oats add an additional splash of warm water when kneading the dough as quick oats tend to absorb more water. Instant yeast can also be used in lieu of active yeast. 1/2 cup (125 mL) rolled oats 1 cup (250 mL) boiling water 11/2 cups (375 mL) lukewarm water 1/2 cup plus 1 tbsp (140 mL) fancy molasses 1-8g packet or 2 tsp (10 mL) active dry yeast 5 cups (1250 mL) all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading 1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt Butter or cooking spray, for greasing pans In a small heatproof bowl, stir together oats and boiling water. Let stand until oats have absorbed water and softened, about 10 to 15 minutes. Set aside.
Meanwhile, in a separate large bowl, whisk together molasses and warm water. Sprinkle in yeast and let stand until bubbles form, about 10 minutes. Add cooked oats to yeast mixture. Stir in flour and salt and gently knead for 5 minutes until a uniform and sticky ball of dough forms.
Cover bowl loosely with plastic wrap or a damp dishtowel.
Let sit for 2 hours, or until dough rises to twice its size. Punch down dough and knead on a lightly floured surface for about 5 to 10 minutes. Divide dough into 6 balls of equal size, weighing about 350 g each. Grease two loaf pans measuring 9 inch by 5 inch by 3 inch (23 cm by 13 cm by 7 cm) with butter or cooking spray. Place three dough balls in a row in each pan. Cover pans with plastic wrap or a damp dishtowel. Let sit for another hour, or until dough rises to top of pans. Preheat oven to 350 F (175 C). Bake for 1 hour, or until a deep golden-brown crust forms and bread makes a hollow sound when lightly tapped.
Remove from heat and let loaves rest in pan for 5 minutes before removing. Let cool completely before slicing. Serve with butter and a light sprinkling of kosher salt.
Makes 2 loaves. karonliu@thestar.ca