Warm up with hearty steak and kidney pie
Eat like the Irish with recipes from author Patrick Taylor’s An Irish Country Cookbook
Author Patrick Taylor isn’t a chef, but rather he’s a retired medical researcher turned bestselling author of the Irish Country historical fiction series, which chronicles the life of a young doctor in a fictional village in Northern Ireland (his 11th book came out last year).
An Irish Country Cookbook ($24.99, Forge) is a companion cookbook to his series for fans who want to fully immerse themselves in the fictional world of Ballybucklebo, the village where the stories take place, and eat what the characters eat.
Even if you haven’t read any of his books, the recipes are true to classic Irish flavours.
The book: There’s the expected soda and Guinness breads, puddings (sweet and savoury), meaty stews, baked salmon, Guinness-steamed mussels, roasted lamb and, of course, potato everything. As with British cooking, there are also Indian-influenced dishes in here, such as chutneys. Fans of Taylor’s books will be delighted to know that between recipe chapters are short stories featuring characters from the Irish Country series.
The quote: Much of the book is written from the point of view of Kinky Kincade, the housekeeper of one of the main characters. Through Kincade, the author works this little tale into the intro to a corned beef curry recipe.
“Patrick Taylor’s father, Squadron Leader Jimmy Taylor, RAFVR, had been stationed in Basra during the Second World War. An Indian regiment was part of the garrison and the officers’ messes entertained each other. While the Hindu soldiers were vegetarian and ate vegetarian curries, the RAF cookhouse had created one using corned beef . . . Jimmy was so impressed with the dish that he obtained the recipe and it was a popular meal at home after the war . . . ”
The tester: I admit my knowledge of Irish cuisine is limited to Lucky Charms, but my love of stews and meat pies does lend itself to the hearty flavours of the countryside. Recipes I’m dying to make: Frankly, the dishes I want to make are based on the names alone. Salmon in a Pickle (salmon poached in a sweet vinegar brine); Colcannon, a.k.a. Rumbledethumps (mashed potatoes with kale or cabbage), Himmel and Urde (German mashed potatoes and apple); Yellow Man (toffee); A Hot Irish (hot toddy).
Steak and Kidney Pie
3 Star Tested There are many variations on this staple, as some recipes add chopped carrots, while others make a tomatobased gravy.
This version is its most basic form: caramelized beef, kidney and onion simmered in a silky gravy that has a sweet tang of Worcestershire.
The book calls for lamb kidneys, but I substituted with veal kidneys, which are easier to find at the butcher’s and have a similar taste. If you’re not keen on kidneys, substitute with a pound of chopped button mushrooms, as they have a similar look and texture.
To round out the meal, serve it with mashed potatoes, mushy peas and a dry Irish stout.
For individual pies, use oven-safe bowls and bake in the same manner, remembering to keep an eye on the oven as smaller pies bake faster. 2 tbsp (30 mL) all-purpose flour 1 lb (450 g) stewing beef, cut into 1-cm (0.4-inch) pieces 2 tbsp (30 mL) vegetable oil 1 lb (450 g) lamb or veal kidney, fat and membrane removed and diced into 1-cm (0.4-inch) pieces 2 medium-sized yellow onions, diced 3-3/4 cups (900 mL) no-salt added beef broth 1 tbsp (15 mL) Worcestershire sauce Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 sheet store-bought frozen puff pastry, plus additional sheet for decorating (optional) 1 egg yolk 1 tsp (5 mL) milk In a mixing bowl, sprinkle half of flour over beef and toss to lightly coat. Set aside.
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, heat oil and sauté beef until browned and slightly caramelized on all sides. Transfer beef to a large bowl. Add diced kidney and sauté until browned and slightly caramelized on all sides. Transfer kidney to bowl with beef. Add onions to skillet and sauté until translucent and beginning to brown.
Turn heat down to medium. Return beef and kidneys to pan. Add remaining flour and stir until evenly mixed. Deglaze pan with beef broth and Worcestershire, scraping off caramelized bits with wooden spatula.
Reduce heat and let simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour to 1-1/2 hours until liquid has cooked off to a thick gravy. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove from heat and let cool to room temperature, or refrigerate in an airtight container if making later. Preheat oven to 425 F (220 C). Spread mixture evenly into a 7-inch pie plate. Drape one sheet of puff pastry over top of filling, trimming off surplus dough and crimping edges.
If desired, use an additional sheet of puff pastry and cut out shapes to place on top as decoration.
In a small bowl, whisk together egg yolk and milk. Brush pastry with egg mixture. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until pastry has risen and is golden brown.
Let rest for 5 minutes as risen puff pastry will settle down as it cools. Serve immediately.
Makes 4 to 6 servings. karonliu@thestar.ca