Build a better spice drawer
Claire Tansey joins the Star’s food team this week with advice on what herbs and spices you really need in your kitchen
Say goodbye to the comprehensive spice drawer. For delicious, diverse dishes, all you need are nine essentials.
It’s appealing to have a pantry stocked with every spice on Earth, from allspice to za’atar, but when it’s crunch time in the kitchen you really don’t need them all. Just seven dried herbs and spices (and two blends) add all kinds of deliciousness to almost any dish. These nine essentials are chameleons that play nicely with a variety of cuisines, and, with the exception of smoked paprika, are available at any grocery store. Sure, sumac is swell and fenugreek is fun, but the foundation of every smart spice cupboard consists of these basics.
All dried herbs and spices lose their oomph fairly quickly so buy them in small amounts and store them away from light and heat. I keep mine in small glass jars in a cupboard and refresh them every six months or so.
Chili powder
Not to be confused with chilli powder (which is ground cayenne, ouch!), chili powder is a blend of mild, fragrant spices and herbs including ancho chile, oregano, cumin and paprika. It’s obviously perfect for meat or veggie chili, but is also a genius one-stop seasoning for taco and enchilada fillings. Try sprinkling it over cauliflower florets or squash wedges before roasting.
Curry powder Another blend of spices, curry powder can be mild, medium or hot (get what you prefer), and every brand has its own distinct flavour. It’s a must for curries, but it’s also a tasty match with almost any egg dish. Add it to egg salad or devilled eggs or sprinkle some in melted butter before frying an egg. It’s also my secret ingredient in coleslaw and homemade ranch dressing. Cinnamon Cinnamon gets on the essentials list because, like Taylor Swift, it’s a clever crossover artist. It’s equally at home in sweet dishes like apple pie and ginger cookies, as well as in savoury ones like biryani, mole and tagine. Add a pinch to pancake batter, oatmeal or hot chocolate, then cross over and try some in chicken curry, pulled pork or a beef stir fry. Cumin Some people love it, others can’t even bear its smell, but ground cumin is one of the world’s mostused spices. It’s a foundational ingredient in Mexican and Indian cooking, and features prominently in Middle Eastern, North African, Southeast Asian and Latin American cuisines. Add cumin to lentil-vegetable soup, sprinkle it over lamb chops before grilling or stir it into plain yogurt for an easy raita. Thyme Thyme is the only green herb to get my vote. The other top contenders — basil, dill, mint, rosemary — are almost flavourless in their dried state, so unless you’re only adding colour to a dish, splurge on the fresh herbs or leave them out. Thyme, though, packs enough flavour to warrant a place on this list. Make sure to get dried thyme leaves — not the ground powder, which is overpowering. Use it in vegetable soups, on roast chicken, potatoes or carrots. It’s also particularly good when mixed with cumin. Smoked paprika Smoked paprika might be a surprise addition to a list of “essentials,” but hear me out. Not only does smoked paprika bring gentle heat and gorgeous deep red colour, it also adds an exciting hint of smokiness that you can’t get any other way. It’s a game-changer for vegetable soups, baked beans, dry rubs of all kinds and even mac and cheese. Look for it in small tins in bigger grocery stores and specialty shops. Garlic powder Food snobs might look down their noses at it, but peek into any restaurant pantry and you’ll find garlic powder. It’s a dehydrated, pulverized form of the original that’s a little less punchy than fresh garlic, but similarly flavourful and extremely versatile. I use it in dry rubs because it doesn’t burn on the grill, and it’s my go-to for the lazy dishes I chuck in the slow cooker (when I’m not up for sautéing fresh garlic). Try a pinch in your next bowl of guacamole, steak marinade or salad dressing. Whole black peppercorns If you have a jar of ground black pepper in the pantry, could I beg you to go throw it away immediately? I guarantee you it has almost no flavour and only serves to add a dusting of grey specks to food. Invest in an inexpensive pepper mill, buy whole black peppercorns in bulk and switch to freshly ground pepper. It’s a revelation. Freshly ground pepper instantly upgrades pasta carbonara, steak, scrambled eggs and countless other dishes. Crushed red chili pepper flakes Spicy but not fiery, attractive but not ostentatious, crushed red pepper flakes are the Hugh Grant of the spice rack. A pinch adds a little bite of heat here and there to any dish, bringing a delightful element of surprise to each bite. Try a little or a lot in meat loaf, avocado toast or any pasta dish. Claire Tansey is a chef, teacher and food expert. Her first cookbook, Uncomplicated, will be published in September 2018 by Penguin Random House. Facebook.com/ claires recipes and @tanseyclaire.
WHERE TO BUY
Jars are from Canadian Tire, $1.99 each.
Find free printable labels at blog.worldlabel.com and print out on Avery labels ($11.24 at Staples). Write on them with a silver Sharpie.