Take your green game to a whole new level
Chef Jeremy Fox’s new book On Vegetables will change how you look at veggies 2 cups (500 mL) canola or vegetable oil 3 large shallots 3 tbsp (45 mL) all-purpose flour Kosher salt, to taste
California-based chef Jeremy Fox’s highly anticipated debut cookbook On Vegetables ($60, Phaidon) is a gorgeous 320-page hardcover filled with inspiring ways to use all the parts of vegetables that you see everyday in the produce aisle, exposing home cooks to unfamiliar greens they might see at the farmers’ markets.
Fox, the chef of Rustic Canyon restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif., writes that this book isn’t about clean eating or how to get kids to eat broccoli, but rather a book filled with recipes that show the versatility of vegetables from a simple 10-minute lunch to elaborate plates of fine-dining calibre. Uncommon flavour pairings such as celery and pickled grapes, as well as beets and berries, make the home cook think beyond the salad. The book: On Vegetables is for the advanced home cook who can see themselves making their own corn stock or dehydrating their own garlic. Some of the ingredients might be hard to come by such as crosnes and ramps, but Fox writes that his recipes are meant to be adapted using whatever greens the reader has access to. The quote: “. . . this is not a book intended to give you a full menu for your dinner party, or to show you how to throw together a vegetarian family brunch. This book, quite simply, is about cooking plants: to expose people to all the different things one can do with a vegetable.” The tester: I love plant-based cooking, but I need inspiration on new flavour pairings and mains that are more than chickpeas and tofu. This book is made for me. Recipes I’m dying to make: Vegan 4x corn polenta (a very intense- sounding polenta that requires making your own corn stock, creamed corn and corn pudding), kohlrabi kraut and poached egg, daikon braised in orange juice (genius flavour pairing), baby kiwi and burrata (I can see this combo working).
Cool Melon and Coconut Milk Curry
Star Tested This refreshing chilled summer soup is infused with Thai flavours such as coconut milk and lemongrass, which adds punchy, herbal and citrus notes to the sweet cantaloupe.
Kaffir lime leaves (available at Asian grocers) are being increasingly called makrut lime leaves in the West because “kaffir” has been historically used as a racial slur in other parts of the world.
This soup takes two to three days to make because of refrigeration, but if you don’t want the coconut cream garnish you can skip refrigerating the milk. The soup can be made up to three days in advance. 1 large cantaloupe, about 4 to 5 lbs (2 to 2-1/4 kg) 1 tbsp (15 mL) canola oil 3 stalks lemongrass, trimmed, outer leaves removed and thinly sliced 2 jalapeno peppers, 1 seeded and minced, other thinly sliced for garnish 1 tbsp (15 mL) peeled and minced fresh ginger 1 small white onion (about 1 cup) finely diced Kosher salt, to taste 6 fresh makrut lime leaves Stems from 1 bunch cilantro Stems from 1 bunch mint Stems from 1 bunch basil 3 cups (750 mL) full-fat coconut milk, refrigerated overnight Juice of 1 lime Fresh mint, cilantro or basil leaves, for garnish Olive oil, for garnish Slice melon in half. Scoop out seeds and stringy bits and transfer to a fine-mesh sieve placed over a bowl. Using hands, squeeze as much juice out of seeds and stringy bits as pos- sible. Discard seeds and stringy bits. Set extracted juice aside.
Chop melon into rough chunks, enough to fill 8 cups. Discard rinds. Reserve any extra melon for garnishing.
In a large pot over medium heat, heat oil. Add lemongrass, minced jalapeno, ginger, onion and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring until onion is translucent but has not turned yellow.
Wrap lime leaves and herb stems in cheese cloth or tie everything in a tight bundle with string. Add to bottom of pot. Add chopped cantaloupe and a pinch of salt. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until melon chunks have mostly melted in pot, about 30 minutes.
Remove coconut milk from refrigerator. Skim 1/2 cup of coconut cream from surface and refrigerate, reserving for garnish. Add remaining coconut cream and milk to pot. Increase heat to medium-high and bring mixture to a boil.
Remove pot from heat and add re- served melon juice. Discard bundle of herbs.
Working in small batches, transfer pot contents to a blender and blend until smooth. Alternatively, use a hand blender and blend mixture directly in pot. Strain blended soup through a fine mesh strainer, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible.
Let soup completely cool to room temperature before covering with plastic wrap and refrigerating until completely chilled, about 6 hours to overnight. Once chilled, season with salt and lime juice, to taste.
Ladle soup into serving bowls and garnish with fried shallots (see recipe below), dollops of reserved coconut cream, any leftover melon, jalapeno slices, herb leaves and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Fried Shallots
Star Tested Fried shallots are a tasty garnish that will add a salty crunch to a dish. They’re easy to make but if you’re lazy, you can find jars of fried shallots at Chinese grocers. In a small saucepan, bring oil to 300 F (150 C).
Meanwhile, cut ends off shallots. Remove outer skin and with sharp knife, slice shallots into very thin rounds. Separate rounds into rings and transfer to a small bowl. Sprinkle flour and a pinch of salt over shallots, tossing with hands to ensure rings are lightly covered with flour and salt.
In small batches, fry shallots in hot oil until golden brown, about 30 seconds to 1 minute, careful not to burn. Transfer fried shallots to plate lined with paper towel and let cool until ready to garnish. karonliu@thestar.ca