Toronto Star

The kindest competitio­n show on TV

- Johanna Schneller

The show: The Great British Baking Show, Season 4, Episode 1 The moment: Doing their best Judge Mary Berry moves among the 12 bakers competing in a pristine white tent on a manor house lawn.

“Double drizzle, Val, always,” she advises one. She’s talking about a drizzle cake, but she makes it sound like a mantra.

“Lovely to see a smile on your face, Jane,” she tells another. “You were facing disaster the last time we saw you.” The disaster: a sponge cake that didn’t rise.

Mary’s fellow judge Paul Hollywood dunks a Jaffa cake in his tea. Mary regards him. “We don’t do that in the south, you know,” she says, imbuing each word with serene horror.

I haven’t watched this series before. Now I get what the fuss is about. Is it Friday evening? Have you had a trying week? Do you need the televisual equivalent of a nice cup of tea?

Are these the only fightin’ words you want to hear from a reality contestant? “Everyone wants to do their best and I’m going to do my best as well.” Then this is the show for you, the kindest competitio­n show imaginable and the most British.

Just to make sure you can fully relax into it, I’m going to forewarn you of the harshest thing anyone says: “Now, come on, breathe,” host Sue Perkins admonishes a teary contestant. “Every second spent crying is a second less to show how good you are at baking.”

Plus, who knew there were 18,000 different types of sponge cake? I can feel my blood pressure lowering with each passing biscuit. The Great British Baking Show airs Fridays at 9 p.m. on PBS. Johanna Schneller is a media connoisseu­r who zeroes in on pop-culture moments. She usually appears Monday through Thursday.

 ?? DES WILLIE/LOVE PRODUCTION­S ?? Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry are judges on The Great British Baking Show.
DES WILLIE/LOVE PRODUCTION­S Paul Hollywood and Mary Berry are judges on The Great British Baking Show.
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