THESE PINOT GRIGIOS WILL SWEEP YOU OFF YOUR FEET
Pinot Grigio outsells all other white grape varieties sold in Ontario by a landslide. But with 99 different Pinot Grigios on LCBO shelves, how do you know which ones won’t let you down? There should be that bright acidity characteristic of the style, but
2016 Folonari Pinot Grigio, Veneto IGT, Italy (LCBO #229542, $11.95 till Sept. 6, reg. $13.95 in stores and online)
Delicate aromas of lime leaf and chalk lead to polished, silky flavours of the same imbued with breezy hints of wildflowers, lemon zest and minerals with a touch of white pepper on the finish. The wine is energetic but supple — rather than shockingly tart. Solid buy. Do as the Venetians do and pour it with antipasto, polenta or sardines.
Score: 90+
2016 Gabbiano Promessa Pinot Grigio, Veneto IGT, Italy (LCBO #77990, $13.10 in stores only)
First, this wine draws you in with its creamy lemon scent; then it slides all brisk and juicy across the palate suggesting flavours of lemon sorbet and green apple edged with notes of grapefruit zest and crushed stones that linger on the finish. It’s quite a compelling wine for the money. For a real treat, pour it with pasta tossed with olive oil and sautéed mushrooms with a sprinkle of Asiago cheese and a good crank of black pepper.
Score: 90
2016 Bollini Pinot Grigio, Trentino DOC, Italy (Vintages Essential #951319, $17.95 in stores and online)
I recently recommended the 2015 of this wine, and this new vintage now on shelves is equally lovely. It starts with a gentle perfume of subdued citrus and chalk before slipping across the palate with saturated but understated stone fruit and lemon laced with chalk, salt and white grapefruit edged with smoke and flint. A lot of complexity for a Pinot Grigio without straying from the restrained classicism of the style. This joy juice is marvellous with pea risotto.
Score: 92+
2016 Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio, Valdadige DOC, Italy (Vintages Essential #106450, $19.95 in stores and online)
Though this latest vintage on shelves is just slightly less silky and balanced than the 2015, it’s still a blue chip buy. Expect mixed citrus aromas on the nose (grapefruit dominant) followed by a thunderclap attack of lemonlime that tastes saturated, then quickly unfurls with allusions of talc, salinity and grapefruit zest. That salt and grapefruit note resonates on the finish, seasoning the palate beautifully. Pour it with lightly dressed mixed greens tossed with roasted red peppers, walnuts and goat cheese.
Score: 88+
2016 Concilio Pinot Grigio, Trentino DOC, Italy (LCBO #637595, $13.95 in stores and online)
Love the understated nature of this wine — not even the label is remotely flashy. But don’t let that fool you; it will have you at hello. Muted aromas and flavours of lemon zest and sea salt swirl around in this pristine, well-balanced and elegantly structured wine. It’s all about harmony, really; with every sip quietly, but instantly, enhancing the moment. Pour it with anything. But I particularly like it with steamed mussels and French fries in the sunshine.
Score: 90+