Leeks are a delicate alternative to onions
Noble vegetable is endearing with its melting sweetness and its light hints of garlic
With 6,000 years of history and a repertoire of famous dishes from Vichyssoise to bistro fave Poireaux Vinaigrette, you’d think leeks would be more common in Canadian kitchens.
This noble vegetable with the long, straight white stem and blue-green leaves was on the menu for crews building Egypt’s pyramids in 2600 BC, while legend has it that Welsh soldiers in the sixth century AD wore leeks in their helmets to distinguish themselves from their Saxon foes. The leek is still worn as the national “flower” of Wales on St. David’s Day.
When cooked, its melting sweetness with delicate hints of onion and garlic endear it to local chefs such as Lynn Crawford of Ruby Watchco, who describes leeks as “majestic, softer and sweeter than onions with more depth of flavour and too often overlooked.”
Though they may look intimidating, and are pricier than regular onions, leeks are super easy to prepare, falling into instant layers when cut without making your eyes sting.
Dutch-born farmer John Den Boer says demand for his 20 acres of leeks in Otterville is growing every year, and he’s now able to extend his season from August to February, perhaps later. “This year’s crop is excellent,” he says, “and we’re happy that more and more people are demanding local food and want to know where it comes from.”
The long, leggy crop takes a long time to grow, he notes. He starts his plants in the greenhouse in February, transplants the skinny seedlings to the field in early May then waits until the end of August to harvest the first roots. “You can use leeks in so many dishes,” he says, “as a vegetable, in soups or stews, and if you cut it very thin it makes a nice salad.”
Buy & Store
Buy leeks year-round. The Ontario crop is available from August to February.
Den Boer sells leeks to Ontario Food Terminal wholesalers and directly to independents including Starsky, Coppa’s and Highland Farms.
Look for firm, smooth leeks, free of blemishes with no yellowing or wilting.
Choose leeks with the longest white stem you can find.
Trim any bruised or damaged leaves.
Wrap loosely in a plastic bag or damp towels and refrigerate up to one week.
Waste Not
At $1 or more per leek, using only the prized white and light green parts and discarding the dark green top seems wasteful. “Use the whole thing!” Crawford says, especially if you’re making a stew or puréed soup. Top Chef Nicole Gomes suggests lopping off a few outer dark green leaves on top and chopping up the lightcoloured interior.
Prep
Trim roots just before using and remove any tough outer leaves.
Slice bulb lengthwise and rinse layers thoroughly under cold running water to remove any trapped grit or sand. Pat dry. Slice crosswise to use in recipes.
Serve
Use leeks in any dish that calls for onions.
Vinaigrette: Cut large leeks in half lengthwise. Boil or steam over simmering water until tender when poked with a knife. Drain on paper towels. Arrange on platter and drizzle with a mustardy vinaigrette.
Braise: Sauté bacon and garlic, cook leeks for 5 minutes til bright green. Add a little white wine and reduce. Add broth to partially cover. When leeks are tender, add a little butter. Top with chives.
Roast: Add cleaned, halved leeks to a pot roast or pan of roasted vegetables.
Vichyssoise: This creamy potato and leek soup is served cold.
Garnish: Dice or thinly slice leeks to sprinkle over a salad or soup. Or toss with a little cornstarch and shallow-fry until golden for a frizzled look.
Mash or layer: Dice the white part and add to potatoes as they begin to boil. Or layer sliced leeks with scalloped potatoes, parsnips or any winter gratin.
Soups & stews: Add leeks to soups or stews at the same stage as you would onions.
Leek and Lemon Quiche
Star Tested Crawford created this easy, delicious recipe for Egg Farmers of Canada. New pre-rolled puff pastry sheets make it even easier.
1 sheet frozen puff pastry 2 tbsp (30 mL) extra-virgin olive oil 2 cups (500 mL) cleaned and diced leeks 1 cup (250 mL) 15% or 35% cream 4 eggs 1 tsp (5 mL) grated lemon zest 1 tsp (5 mL) kosher salt 1/4 tsp (1 mL) freshly ground black pepper 3 oz (90 g) feta, goat or blue cheese, crumbled
Thaw puff pastry three to four hours at room temperature or overnight in the fridge. Preheat oven to 375 F (190 C). Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add leeks and cook until wilted, 5 to 7 minutes. Reserve. In medium bowl, whisk cream, eggs, lemon zest, salt and pepper.
On a lightly floured surface, or between two layers of plastic wrap or parchment paper, roll out the thawed puff pastry to a 1/4-inch (5 mm) thickness. Line a shallow 9inch (23 cm) pie plate and press pastry up the sides. Make a nice edge.
Distribute cooked leeks evenly over bottom of dish. Pour cream mixture over leeks. Top quiche with cheese.
Bake 30 to 40 minutes until the centre is firm and the crust and top are nicely browned.
Makes 6 servings. Cynthia David is a Toronto-based food and travel writer who blogs at cynthia-david.com.