Toronto Star

Bourdain’s suicide mystifies village residents

Celebrity chef in France to shoot an episode of his popular TV show

- MILAN SCHREUER

KAYSERSBER­G, FRANCE— The suicide of Anthony Bourdain, the celebrity chef and television host, left the residents of Kaysersber­g, a small village in the Alsace region of France, known for its wine, local food and architectu­re, puzzled about why he chose this place to end his life.

Bourdain’s sudden death at Le Chambard, a five-star hotel in the village, also sent shock waves through the world’s restaurant industry.

It spurred an outpouring among fans and foodies, too, who paid tribute on social media to a man who used food as a passport to understand other cultures and who used his star power to back the #MeToo movement, in which his girlfriend, Asia Argento, an Italian actress, is a central figure.

The French officials investigat­ing the suicide said Saturday that he had been found hanging in his hotel bathroom at 9:10 a.m. Friday.

“The case is closed,” said Christian de Rocquigny, the local prosecutor in charge of the investigat­ion. “There is no indication of any involvemen­t by a third person, and we’re ready to give the body to his family.”

In interviews with hotel and restaurant employees and with local officials, a portrait of Bourdain’s last day in the medieval village, close to the German border, emerged.

Bourdain had been in Kaysersber­g to shoot an episode for his CNN show Parts Unknown. On Thursday night, he skipped dinner and did not show up for breakfast the next morning.

Maxime Voinson, 24, a waiter at the Winstub, a restaurant at Le Chambard, said Bourdain had dined there almost every night with his friend Eric Ripert, the chef of Le Bernardin, a three-star New York restaurant.

“They both stayed in separate rooms, and usually had break- fast and dined together at the Winstub,” Voinson said.

But Thursday night, when Bourdain didn’t show up for dinner, he said: “Mr. Ripert thought it was strange. We thought it was strange. Mr. Bourdain knew the chef, Monsieur Nasti; he knew the kitchen. Maybe he went out and ate somewhere else, we said, but we didn’t think much of it.”

But on Friday morning at breakfast, Bourdain again didn’t show up. “His friend was waiting at breakfast, and waiting and waiting,” Voinson said.

Ripert tried to reach Bourdain on his cellphone, according to hotel staff. A receptioni­st then went to Bourdain’s room, where he was found hanging in the bathroom.

“This leads us to suspect that not much preparatio­n and premeditat­ion went into the act, and leads us more in the direction of an impulsive act,” de Rocquigny said.

Investigat­ors were waiting for the results of blood tests, screening for toxic substances and drugs, the results of which were expected to arrive in the coming days, but they were not expected to change the outcome of the investigat­ion.

When Bourdain’s body was found, the hotel staff immediatel­y called the gendarmeri­e, which arrived within less than half an hour and sealed off Bourdain’s hotel room for the day. His belongings were put into a safe, and his body was taken out the backdoor to Colmar, the nearest city, where the local prosecutor opened an investigat­ion.

Bourdain’s body is being held at a morgue in Colmar, officials said, as relatives made preparatio­ns to claim it.

Olivier Nasti, the two-star chef who runs the Winstub, owns Le Chambard in Kaysersber­g and carries the title “meilleur ouvrier de France” (a national distinctio­n rewarding the best craftsmen in their field), knew Bourdain as a friend and as a colleague.

In a media statement, he expressed his condolence­s to Bourdain’s family and to “the anonymous people around the world” whom he had inspired to dream. He called Bourdain “the leader, the author, the TV entertaine­r, the visionary.”

He added: “It is the whole family of French gastronomy that joins me, to renew our deep friendship to our American brothers bereaved.” Nasti declined to give any further comment.

In Kaysersber­g, which has flourished from tourists who flock here for the restaurant­s and hotels, and for the bucolic landscapes nearby, residents expressed puzzlement at Bourdain’s death.

Christophe Jalin, who grew up in the village and still lives here, was drinking coffee at a standing table across the street from Le Chambard on Saturday morning. “Why did he do this in France?” Jalin asked of Bourdain. “Why did he do this in Kaysersber­g?”

He expressed concern for Nasti, who is known by locals for being kind and open but discipline­d at work.

Nasti, he was back in his kitchen Friday, visible through a glass window. He had ordered his staff not to speak to reporters about Bourdain’s death and to carry on working. Dressed in his chef uniform, he could be seen making wild gestures with his arms and directing his kitchen staff to prepare for the opening of the restaurant.

 ?? JEAN-DAVID SCHROEDER/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? Anthony Bourdain in Kaysersber­g last Monday, where he was filming Parts Unknown with chef Julien Schroeder, centre, his wife Virginie Schroeder, centre right, and Eric Ripert, second left.
JEAN-DAVID SCHROEDER/THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Anthony Bourdain in Kaysersber­g last Monday, where he was filming Parts Unknown with chef Julien Schroeder, centre, his wife Virginie Schroeder, centre right, and Eric Ripert, second left.

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