The revival of the midday meal infused with Southern charm
In this increasingly fast-paced world, you can slow it down at dinner
Most of us live in a world of go, go, go. We have instant access to technology, information, money, coffee, meals and entertainment. Has the charm of slowing our roll disappeared?
No! In fact, to find the charm of a slower pace, look south. Whether gathering inspiration from South Carolina or southern Italy, both locales can inspire the Southern charm that comes with enjoying an entertaining experience that relishes slowing things down with a delicious meal, delightful decor and more.
“Food is an essential part of a celebration in southern Italy,” says Rosario Procino, owner of Ribalta Restaurant in New York’s Greenwich Village (ribaltapizzarestaurant.com). “All kinds of entertaining involves food in some way. Mingling, drinking vino and eating is a way of life for Italians.”
In a fast-paced society, sometimes the artistry in entertaining with a food focus can feel overwhelming, especially for a host/hostess who is limited on time and resources.
There are ways to help shift the mindset to finding a balance in these areas. For a change in perspective, we can look back through our own Southern hospitality historical roots.
“In my grandmother’s time, an entire meal would be made ahead of time, and then the finished dishes would be covered with a large cloth while the family went to church,” says Katie Moseman, author of Fixin’ to Eat: Southern Cooking for the Southern at Heart.
When they returned home, the meal would be ready and waiting. Nowadays, we might not leave our meals out for quite so long, but we still prepare food ahead of time to make it easier to entertain family and friends.”
Think about starting your meal earlier, around midday, to allow plenty of time to enjoy without you or your guests feeling rushed.
The beauty of traditional Italian entertaining is it can take place almost any time of day. In addition to Italian cultures, many others’ customs encourage lengthy early afternoon into late evening meals with friends and family.
“Pasta cannot be missed in an Italian meal,” Procino says. “We serve different kinds of pasta. That’s our primo. In some lunch celebrations we do a trittico — three different kinds of pasta.
“Usually, the primo is followed by a second course (meat or fish) served with a side contorno (vegetable or salad).”
Other tasty traditional aspects of an Italian midday meal may include an aperitive that includes wine and a small dish like pitted olives, followed by a prosciutto, cheese and bread antipasti spread, all to be followed by any number of courses.
“A modern host has to keep in mind the diverse needs of (their) guests,” Procino says. “Make sure there is enough food for everyone while still being able to satisfy everyone’s taste and choices. Meat, fish, vegetables, gluten free and so on … Everyone has to be happy at the table.”
Stateside Southern traditional entertaining includes three staples, according to Moseman. “Southern charm comes through in meals by adding classic items to the entertaining menu, like sweet tea, pimento cheese and cornbread,” Moseman says.
To take a modern spin on pimento cheese, Food & Wine (foodandwine.com) has recipes for Pimento Cheese Muffins, Pimento Cheese Fries and Pimento Cheese and Tomato Pie, among other options.
No matter what you serve to guests, do so with intention and with the understanding that your meal is meant to last.
Let conversation be as much a centrepiece of a five-course meal as the main dish (or dishes).
Only until a fruit cobbler and sweet tea or espresso and cheesecake are served is it time to end your midday dining experience.
To elevate the ambience of Southern charm, think about implementing decor to match your midday meal.
“Mason jar glasses are an easy way to add an element of casual charm to the table,” Moseman says. “Calico or flour sack napkins add a rustic texture that’s both beautiful and practical.”
“Italian decor often makes use of natural elements such as floral displays as the ideal centrepiece for a table,” Procino says. “We love wildflowers or dried flowers. We also incorporate herbs in our decoration: lavender, rosemary or thyme that give an authentic Italian look to the table.” Since a midday or long, drawn-out meal is meant to focus on food and conversation, it’s a perfect time to pull out all the stops — get out the fine china, favourite fancy dining ware, crystal and silver.
“Above all,” Moseman says, “the essence of true Southern hospitality is welcoming all to the table with an open heart.”