Savour Scottish style in St. Andrews
Old seaside town packed with history and charm and Will & Kate spots
St. Andrews has been a pilgrimage destination for nearly 2,000 years. In the Middle Ages, pilgrims came to venerate St. Andrew, whose bones were likely moved to town in the fourth century. Wearing capes and large hats with badges bearing images of the saint, they came seeking forgiveness, to find cures or as punishment for crimes they had committed.
Today, St. Andrews attracts a different kind of pilgrim — golfers who want to play in the sport’s birthplace. But St. Andrews is much more than a haven for golfers. It’s a welcoming place where even introverts will want to mingle with the locals. The old seaside town is packed with history and charm, not to mention a venerable university where Prince William met Kate Middleton. You can roam the same streets they did during their courtship; chances are, you too will be seduced.
FRIDAY 4 p.m.: In Scottish style The kilt has been both a practical garment and an important part of Scottish culture since the 16th century. A good quality kilt can set you back $1,000 (U.S.) or more, but you can be an honorary Scot for the weekend by renting one at the nearly 50year-old, family-run Kirk Wynd Highland House (adults 65 pounds, or about $86; children 35 pounds per weekend.)
6 p.m.: Primal pleasures A smoky, intoxicating aroma will draw you into the Steak Barn, a former sawmill that is part of the popular Balgove Lar- der farm shop and cafe complex. The Steak Barn serves up juicy steaks, burgers and sausages (along with vegetarian options) made from grass-fed cattle that have been reared and butchered on site.
8 p.m.: Dessert, Scottish-Italian style It’s easy to find Jannettas Gelateria — just look for the lines, which often stretch well outside the door in summer. The Jannetta family has been serving up gelato for more than 100 years, with 54 delicious flavours to choose from. (If the lines are too long, walk five minutes to the Burns Sweet Shop, which carries a limited selection of Jannetta’s flavours.)
SATURDAY 7:30 a.m.: Sword of fudge For a big, rectangular slice of heaven on earth, treat yourself to a decadent fudge doughnut at the Church Street branch of the Fisher and Donaldson bakery. The recipe is kept in parts hidden across five locations, and the owners claim the secret is only revealed to their “purebread Viking bakers” who are equipped with their delectable “weapons of dynasty”: a shield of custard and a sword of fudge.
9:30 a.m.: In the footsteps of William and Kate Just outside town, at the stunning Fairmont St. Andrews Resort, you can see where Kate Middleton caught Prince William’s eye on March 27, 2002, while modelling in a transparent dress at a charity fashion show. If you would like to see where they lived, start as they did their freshmen year at St. Salvator’s Hall, in the heart of University of St. Andrews, and then take a short walk off campus to 13a Hope St., where they resided with two other friends in their second year. (They lived their third and fourth years at Balgove House, a four-bedroom cottage near the Balgove Larder farm shop, but it is largely hidden behind a stone wall.) Another William and Kate haunts is Northpoint Cafe, where they often met for coffee.
Noon: Royal curry Wind up your William and Kate tour at Jahangir, an Indian restaurant that was reportedly one of their favourite places to eat. (Note the photo of William eating curry on their wall of fame.) It is hard to find a better value in town than the 6.95 pound express lunch, which comes with three courses and freshly baked naan bread.
2 p.m.: The home of golf Golf developed along the east coast of Scotland in the 15th century, and the rules were laid down in 1744. Check out the British Golf Museum to learn how the sport evolved and flourished despite opposition from a succession of Scottish kings. Getting a tee time across the street at the Old Course at St. Andrews, arguably the world’s most famous golf course, requires patience, luck and no worse than a 24-handicap (36 for women.) Your best bet is to enter their ballot lottery, the results of which are posted two days prior. Single players can also queue up in the morning to join groups of two or three (lines often start the night before, so be prepared to camp out if you’re determined).
If you strike out, do not worry: St. Andrews Links has six other public courses. And, then there are a host of other great options in the area, including two seaview courses at the Fairmont where you can surf the course on a Golfboard; Kingarrock, a throwback nine-hole course where you play with 1920s-era hickory golf clubs and get free shortbread and ginger beer; and Carnoustie Golf Links, a challenging course 40 minutes outside town.
8:30 p.m.: A ceilidh with your supper Forgan’s, a smart casual restaurant with an emphasis on local produce and meats, is a local favourite where you can wind down with a nice meal and then blow off some steam with Gaelic music and dancing at the 10:30 p.m. ceilidh. If you have a group of eight to 12, book ahead to score one of the intimate bothies, semi-private dining alcoves named after the unlocked huts that are common in the Scottish Highlands. Try the duck shepherd’s pie or beef bourguignon with a pint of Forgan’s Ale, and save room for the rich and malty sticky toffee pudding.