Toronto Star

Give this cab sauvignon parent grape a swirl

The red-blooded Cabernet Franc has a lot going on

- MICHAEL AUSTIN

This is a case in which the kid outshines the parent —becomes more popular, more universall­y beloved, more powerful, more worldly. That is the way it’s supposed to be, right? Isn’t that the wish of all good parents, that their offspring go on to greater heights than they have? It doesn’t always work that way, but when it does, we are never surprised.

For those unaware, the red grape variety Cabernet Franc (say “frahnk”) is one of the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon, which of course is among the world’s most popular and successful wine grapes. Without Cabernet Franc and co-parent sauvignon blanc (yes, genetic material from a white and a red produced a red grape), the world never would have known Cabernet Sauvignon. But the kid gets enough attention, so let’s focus on that parent, Cabernet Franc.

Cabernet Franc is known as a reliable blending grape, but it also makes some quite successful varietal wines. It is lighter in body than its more powerful offspring and, generally, less tannic, two qualities contributi­ng to its charm. Depending on where it’s grown, Cabernet Franc has a lot going on, sending up bursts of everything from raspberry, cherry and other jammy fruits to distinct herbs, earthiness, floral and green-pepper notes, a little black pepper spice and the variety’s telltale aroma of pencil shavings. Cabernet Franc is approachab­le and non-threatenin­g, but also capable of offering some depth.

An early-ripening grape that appreciate­s cooler climates, Cabernet Franc is produced more in France than any other place on earth, but it is becoming more widely grown worldwide.

Cabernet Franc is one of the permitted red grape varieties in France’s Bordeaux region, along with its aforementi­oned progeny Cabernet Sauvignon, plus merlot, malbec and petit verdot. On the left bank of Bordeaux, which includes the Medoc region, Cabernet Franc is often a role player, a blending partner in wines dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. On the right bank, home to Saint-Emilion and Pomerol, where merlot is the dominant grape variety, Cabernet Franc also plays a supporting role.

The Cabernet Franc-dominant varietal wines from the Loire Valley stand alone for their bright acidity and compatibil­ity with a variety of foods, particular­ly classic French bistro fare: steak frites, roasted chicken and duck.

Generally, Cabernet Franc wines land closer in style to carmenere or merlot, or perhaps even pinot noir, than Cabernet Sauvignon. And they are affordable wines for the most part, especially for the food-friendline­ss and moderate aging potential they offer. Whether you honour FRAHNK-in-steen or someone else with your toast, Cabernet Franc is a great autumn wine —perfect for a wide array of hearty comfort foods and easy to drink with cheeses and snacks. Enjoy it in front of an indoor fire or in crisp open air.

 ?? E. JASON WAMBSGANS TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE ?? Cabernet Franc offerings from around the globe include Château Cheval Blanc (Bordeaux), Lang & Reed (Napa Valley) and Béatrice et Pascal Lambert (Chinon, France).
E. JASON WAMBSGANS TRIBUNE NEWS SERVICE Cabernet Franc offerings from around the globe include Château Cheval Blanc (Bordeaux), Lang & Reed (Napa Valley) and Béatrice et Pascal Lambert (Chinon, France).

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