THE WINE FIND

A column for wine lovers who want to be challenged, tempted to take pause and ponder each sip.

I’m dedicating this column to wine lovers — the kind of drinkers who want to be challenged by wine, tempted to take pause and ponder each sip. Such bottles that invite introspection go beyond being well made and tasty, though they must be those things first. They also offer articulacy of flavour and texture, so they evoke memories of places and experiences. Such wines are worth scouting out and paying a few extra dollars for. And they can be poured or gifted with pride. Here are five such bottles — including four from Ontario.

2015 Tawse Winery David’s Block Cabernet Franc, VQA Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara, ON (Available at Tawse Winery and tawsewinery.ca only, $50.15/bottle plus shipping)

Aromas that call to mind lowhanging boughs of damsons and finely sifted dark cocoa are followed by a firm, deep entry. Ripe plum and macerated berry flavour is well-supported by dense tannins that lend shape and structure to the fleshy fruit. Meanwhile suggestions of iron, granite, graphite, hazelnut, and cement — especially on the back palate — tease the senses before the languid whole tapers to a beautiful, long dark chocolate and toasted hazelnut finish with a whisper of charcoal. When people say Ontario can make great Cabernet Franc, this is what they mean. Score: 96

2016 13th Street Winery Essence Riesling, VQA Creek Shores, Niagara, ON (Available at 13th Street Winery and 13thstreetwinery.com only, $34.95/bottle plus shipping)

Jean-Pierre Colas, a headstrong French winemaker from Chablis with a track record for crafting award-winning Chardonnay, has made this racy, bone-dry Riesling. And his quote on the back label says it all: “My way to enjoy the Ontario varietal star …/My latest challenge, a taste of my taste/Nothing more than Riesling!/But nothing less than Riesling!/Another treat for you … and me, of course! Welcome to my crazy world!” This treat is a bright, focused beam of tart lime with glasslike texture and traces of sea salt, citrus oil, and wet stones. Long. This is not a wine one quietly sets aside after a sip or two. Score: 92

2012 Redstone Winery Meritage, VQA Niagara Peninsula, ON (Available at Redstone Winery and redstonewines.ca only, $46.15/bottle plus shipping)

Meritage, which means a wine made in the Bordeaux style, is a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. But ripening those grape varieties in Ontario’s cool climate is challenging most of the time producing stalky, vegetal expressions that aren’t terribly fun to drink. But 2012’s summer drought and prolonged heat wave grew ripe, concentrated berries capable of making wines such as this one, which drinks like a fine Bordeaux from a good year. Heady aromas of cassis lead to a plush crush of fruit that quickly broadens with riveting complexity — freshly ground coffee, good dark chocolate, toasted nuts, marzipan and more. This sensually alluring wine is drinking beautifully right now. Score: 93

2013 Grgich Hills Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, California (Available in Ontario through Rogers & Co., 1-866-202-9579, rogcowines.com, $587.70/six bottle case plus delivery)

At nearly $100 a bottle, this wine may appear to be a departure from my usual slant of recommending great value wines. But pricier bottles can offer excellent value too, as demonstrated here. One can pay far more for far lesser bottles. This back-vintage from Napa instantly captivates with dark aromas of blackcurrant liqueur, crushed clove and freshly turned black earth before erupting on the palate with thunderous flavours of black cherry, burnt almond and espresso nuanced with tapenade, licorice, graphite and black peppercorn. Tight-fisted but not tough, this wine is starting to drink well at five years old but will certainly reward patience if you lie it down for up to 10 years. Score: 93

2015 Tawse Winery South Bay Vineyards Chardonnay, VQA Prince Edward County, ON (Available at Tawse Winery in Niagara and tawsewinery.ca only, $35.15/bottle plus shipping)

Made from Prince Edward County fruit by Tawse Winery in Niagara, this wine captures admirably the bright polish of Chardonnay grown in Ontario’s coolest wine region. The nose immediately draws you in with the scent of autumn breezes — fresh but not forward in any way other than to say, cool. Then, the attack is pristine and pure, salt-edged and satiny. Great tension from firm acidity anchors the fruit while a touch of toast from time spent in French oak adds interest and quiet appeal. A dusting of chalk and a twist of grapefruit zest lingers on the long finish. Pour it with oysters, says winemaker Paul Pender. Couldn’t agree more. Score: 95