Don’t nog it till you’ve tried it
Vegan eggnog and other fresh takes on a much-maligned holiday classic,
Eggnog isn’t exactly what you’d call a crowd-pleaser. For every one person who looks forward to the annual appearance of those cartons of nog at the grocery, at least two shudder at the very thought. Some are squeamish about drinking raw eggs; others just aren’t into milk. Vegans object to both the egg and the milk. On the other end of the spectrum, some critics argue that the commercial versions aren’t nearly eggy and creamy enough or that they taste artificial. “What a lot of people don't know is that boxed eggnog from our childhood is very much a modern food item,” says Nick Kennedy, bartender/owner at Toronto’s Civil Liberties. “Most brands use low-grade dairy, edible oils and preservatives, which is why you can lose a carton in your fridge, then find it six weeks later and discover it’s still fine. At the very least, it should split.” In an attempt to quiet the eggnog critics, coming from all directions, here are recipes and ideas for full-fat,
alcohol-free, dairy-free and totally vegan substitutes. Traditional Egg Nog Star Tested
This eggnog recipe is based on Craig Claiborne’s 1958 classic. I made a few changes, though, since every bartender I spoke to said aging it overnight (or longer) is the most important step to improving the flavour. So it is important to start this recipe at least a day before you serve it. 12 eggs (separated) 1 cup (250 mL) superfine sugar 1/2 tsp (2 mL) grated nutmeg 1/2 tsp (2 mL) salt 8 oz (237 mL) cognac (or French brandy, such as Marquis de Villard) 8 oz (237 mL) rye whisky * 24 oz (710 mL) whipping cream 8 oz (237 mL) milk 1whole nutmeg freshly grated to garnish individual servings In a blender or standup mixer, blend yolks until well incorporated. Slowly add sugar, nutmeg and salt until mixed. Slowly add cognac and whisky. Set aside. In a cold medium-sized bowl, beat egg whites and whipping cream until fluffy. Gently fold the cream/whites into the yolk/ spirit mixture until fully integrated. Refrigerate overnight (or longer). Before serving, mix lightly to restore fluffiness. Serve in coupe glasses with a light dusting of fresh-grated nutmeg.
*While many people prefer to add rum instead of rye whisky, the rye adds a distinctly spicy flavour, especially the bold, over-proof Rittenhous e Straight Rye Whiskey. Truth is, there’s a lot of flexibility when it comes to the spirit — I’ve seen recipes with Armagnac, bourbon, spiced rum, port wine and even a delicious combo of sherry and tequila.
Makes 12 servings. The Horchata Solution (Dairy-Free) Star Tested
Anyone looking to eliminate the dairy, but hold on to the rest of the rich eggnog, can easily swap in horchata — a dairy-free, nut-free vegan rice “milk” — for cow’s milk. Horchata hails from Mexico, but is easy to source at Latin groceries in Toronto, such as La Tortilleria. DIY types can be made from scratch with this recipe from Jeffrey Morgenthaler, Portland bartender and author of Drinking Distilled. 1 cup (250 mL) long grain rice 3 cups (750 mL) hot water 1 three-inch long Ceylon soft cinnamon stick broken in 5 or 6 pieces 1/2 cup (125 mL) sugar In a large bowl or pitcher, combine all ingredients. Stir until sugar dissolves. Cover. Let rest on the counter for up to 24 hours. In a blender, add mixture. Blend on high speed until rice is pulverized, about a minute. Strain through a nut milk bag into a bowl. Refrigerate. Horchata will separate, so stir before serving.
Makes four servings. Grey Tiger Vegan Mock Nog Star Tested
To go alcohol-free, swap out the brown liquors for Seedlip’s Grove 42, a spicy new expression from the first distillery to make non-alcoholic “spirits.” Becky Ip and Ryan Ringer, owners of the Bloordale cocktail bar Grey Tiger, are known for some of the city’s most creative and painstakingly per- fected cocktails and vegan snacks. Since they get a lot of people looking for vegan “comfort food,” inventing a vegan nog, to offer alongside their traditional fatty one, was a must. 2 cups (500 mL) filtered water 1 cup (250 mL) unsalted raw almonds 3/4 cup (185 mL) full-fat coconut milk 1/4 cup (60 mL) coconut cream 1-3/4 cup (250 mL) natural raw cane sugar (available at health food stores sometimes with the word "t urbinado" on t he package) 1/8 tsp (1/2 mL) vanilla extract 1/4 tsp (1 mL) freshly grated cinnamon 1/4 tsp (1 mL) freshly grated nutmeg 1/8 tsp (1/2 mL) sea salt 1/8 tsp (1/2 mL) xanthan gum (optional) 3 oz (90 mL) medium sweet, nutty sherry 3 oz (90 mL) aged rum 1.5 oz (45 mL) bonded bourbon In a medium-size bowl, add almonds. Add water until almonds are submerged. Let soak overnight. Strain and rinse almonds. In a blender, pour 2 cups filtered water. Add almonds. Blend for 30 to 60 seconds, until almonds are pulverized. Strain mixture through a nut milk bag (available at Bed Bath and Beyond, for $4.99, and other kitchen supply stores) into a bowl. This should yield 11/2 cups liquid. Discard the pulp. Return to blender. Add coconut milk, coconut cream, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt. Blend for 60 seconds, until liquified. With blender still running, slowly add sherry, rum and bourbon. Add xanthan gum and continue blending for 30 seconds. Refrigerate in a capped bottle.
Serve cold. Garnish with grated nutmeg.
Makes 10 servings.