There’s still time for a summer ‘darty’
Well, the season’s almost over. (I know, say it isn’t so.) Before we hunker down for the deep freeze, break out the mittens and toques and say farewell to all that great summertime fun in the sun, have a darty. No, that’s not a typo. It’s a day party. And serve icewine snow cones.
I heard about icewine snow cones over lunch with a friend from Inniskillin recently who said he served them years ago at the winery during a swelteringly summer day, and they were a huge hit. So I picked up a bottle of 2017 Inniskillin Vidal Icewine, VQA Niagara
Peninsula (Vintages Essential 388306 $49.95/375mL bottle) and whipped one up to taste for myself. It was delicious.
I tossed a cup of ice cubes in my blender, hit the “ice” button, and whizzed it for abut 20 seconds till it was snow. Then, using a spatula, I filled a pretty parfait glass with about a half a cup of the white stuff, topped it with one ounce (30 mL) of the icewine, and tasted it.
Best snow cone ever. OK, I haven’t tried this with Sauternes, France’s fabled dessert wine, but that’s definitely on my bucket list now. An Inniskillin Vidal Icewine snow cone fills the mouth with a sweet-tart hit of cold mango, chin-drip peach, honey and marmalade. Terrific treat on a hot day. And one 375 mL bottle of icewine will make 12 snow cones, so perfect for a darty. Score: 93
If you’re more of a wine purist and want to serve something drier at your darty, consider 2017 Vina Esmeralda from Catalunya, Spain (Vintages 113696 $14.95). This smart blend of Muscat and Gewurztraminer tastes like it was made enjoy al fresco. Delicate, off-dry and deeply aromatic, it teems with scents of lychee, green apple and rosewater. The attack is bright and crisp, with polished flavours of lemonlime sorbet — but not sweet — laced with rose, lychee, and salted lemon zest. Beneath the juicy centre, a stoney undertow emerges on this finish. Score: 91
If you’re all about dry rosé and are willing to spend $26.95 for a very good one, reach for 2018 Vvines Rrosé from the Côtes de Provence in France (Vintages 10557 $26.95). And before you balk at the price, remember it has been selling like hotcakes all summer long for $21 per glass and $105 per bottle at The Chase restaurant in Toronto.
It shines a pretty shade of pale coral and exudes the soft fragrance of apricots, struck steel and cool clay. A beam-like entry shimmers with mouthwatering acidity before quickly uncoiling with articulate allusions of grapefruit, toasted meringue, wet stones and sea salt. The long grapefruit zest finish lingers, leaving the palate primed for another sip. This wine was released Aug. 3, but there’s still lots left on shelves. Score: 91
Also on shelves now is Domaine Chandon NV Brut Classic from California in its limited edition “Chandon Summer” packaging (LCBO 218032 $31.70) — a brilliant afternoon drop. This sparkling blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier from Champagne Moët & Chandon’s Napa Valley outpost offers outstanding value because it tastes very much like fine French Champagne at a snip of the price.
The nose calls to mind baked apples and toasted butter pastry. The attack is dry and elegant with tiny bubbles bursting with dry flavours of apple pie, lemon curd and wet stones. The finish is long. And it’s sure to add a little je ne sais quoi to any darty. Score: 92+
If you plan to grill some burgers midday — an entirely suitable darty activity — have a bottle of 2017 Bread and Butter Cabernet Sauvignon from California on hand, which is a great buy right now (LCBO 647644 $15.95 till Aug. 18, reg. $18.95). New to Ontario, this cheap and cheerful red offers creamy aromas of cherries jubilee that lead to a smooth swirl of oaked Californian Cabernet flavour — black cherry, creamy vanilla, milk chocolate, coffee and pralined nuts with a toasted almond finish. It’s easy-drinking, medium-bodied and sweet-centred so won’t taste soupy or too dry in the mid-day sun. Score: 90