Toronto Star

Cheap prices, rich flavours

A look at the LCBO’s release of sub-$20 wines,

- Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributo­r for the Star. Reach her via email: carolyn@carolyneva­nshammond.com Carolyn Evans Hammond

Seems the LCBO is onto your budgetcons­cious ways in January. And the pope is Catholic. That means our friendly neighbourh­ood liquor giant is releasing a slew of sub-$20 wines Saturday. As always, some are (way) better than others.

Two particular­ly delicious wines to hit shelves that day are the 2016 Noble Vines Collection 181 Merlot from Lodi, Calif. (Vintages 226530 $19.95) and the 2017 Château Ste. Michelle Chardonnay from Columbia Valley, Wash. (Vintages 232439 $19.95).

The 181 Merlot teems with aromas of chocolate cake and muddled blackberri­es. Then it saturates the palate with silky flavours of the same laced with black cherries, nutmeg and toasted nuts. While this dry wine is smooth and supple like most Merlots, there’s gratifying mid-palate concentrat­ion, as well as a plush textural dimension that holds the fruit in place on the finish. It pairs well with roasted chicken thighs with a pan jus. Score 92

The Château Ste. Michelle Chardonnay is also an outstandin­g buy. It draws you in with scents of cool grapefruit and wispy white pepper. Then, a silkycrisp entry cascades with mixed citrus, white pepper, crushed stones and baking spices. This is an elegant, wellbalanc­ed wine with a touch of oak and a resonant finish. Serve it with seafood lasagna for a treat. Score: 91

While these two wines arrive Saturday in Vintages, other new releases deserve your attention in the always available “General List” section of the LCBO — starting with the newly released 2018 “Toso” Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina (LCBO 35170 $14.95).

This inky dark red brims with a compelling perfume of sun-warmed dark berries and crushed graphite. Then, it swathes the palate with dry, smooth flavours of the same, dappled with black pepper, warm wood, chalk and violets that linger on the finish. This is delicious, sophistica­ted-tasting wine that’s a smart choice to serve with roasted meats or mushrooms. Score: 93

For those who prefer their wine a bit sweeter, the new 2018 Passi-Reali Vino Organico Appassimen­to from Abruzzo, Italy (LCBO 523100 $15) offers outstandin­g value. It’s a fullbodied red that teems with open-handed flavours and aromas of dried currants, poached plums, black earth and sugared coffee. The entry is juicy-sweet and robust offering a rich but balanced mix of sweet and savoury flavours. Delicious with hard cheeses such as Pecorino Romano. And as the label says, the wine’s also organic and vegan friendly. Score: 92

And sweeter still is the recently released NV Roscato Dark from Italy, which is wildly popular in the United States (LCBO 629857 $15.95). Expect thundercla­p aromas and flavours of plum purée and dusty dark berries that taste unabashedl­y confected with just the right balance of mouth-watering acidity to ensure a clean finish. This wine works best as a cocktail-style drink with a handful of roasted, salted nuts. Score: 89

Here’s to five budget-friendly finds at the LCBO.

 ??  ?? From left, 2017 Château Ste. Michelle Chardonnay, 2018 “Toso” Malbec, 2018 Passi-Reali Vino Organico Appassimen­to, 2016 Noble Vines Collection 181 Merlot and NV Roscato Dark.
From left, 2017 Château Ste. Michelle Chardonnay, 2018 “Toso” Malbec, 2018 Passi-Reali Vino Organico Appassimen­to, 2016 Noble Vines Collection 181 Merlot and NV Roscato Dark.
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