The Best Carbonara

Pancetta, which isn’t smoked, adds the right balance of salt and umami to the pasta. Bacon has a smoky flavour that, in combination with the cheeses, can bring an excess of umami to the dish. You can also use guanciale (pork cheek), but it is more difficult to find. 1/4 lb (115 g) pancetta, diced

1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil

1 tsp black peppercorns, crushed in a mortar and pestle

1/2 lb (225 g) spaghettoni

4 egg yolks

3/4 cup (75 g) Parmesan cheese, finely grated

3/4 cup (75 g) Pecorino cheese, finely grated

In a large skillet over mediumhigh heat, brown the pancetta in the oil. Add pepper. Cook one minute longer. Set pancetta aside, leaving cooking fat in skillet.

In a pot of lightly salted water, cook pasta for five minutes or until slightly tender, but still firm at the centre. Reserve 1-1/2 cups (375 ml) of pasta cooking water. Drain pasta.

In a bowl, combine egg yolks with both cheeses and 1/4 cup (60 ml) of pasta cooking water.

Set aside.

Meanwhile, in same large skillet used to cook the pancetta, continue to cook pasta with 1/2 cup (125 ml) of the pasta cooking water, stirring constantly, until al dente and liquid has evaporated. Add more pasta cooking water if it evaporates before pasta is properly cooked.

Off the heat, add egg yolk mixture and pancetta to pasta. Stir continuously to prevent eggs from coagulating. Add more pasta cooking water to thin out sauce as needed. Serve immediately. Generously season with pepper.

Makes two servings.