An often overlooked winery offering great value. The Wine Find,
You’ve seen Pelee Island wines on shelves in Ontario. They have a whole raft of listings at the LCBO, and the prices tend to be relatively low for Ontario wine. So, it tends to get overlooked by many consumers who assume it’s just mediocre juice. Though some bottles are pretty average, others are quite tasty and offer outstanding value for money. You just need to know what to buy.
So, I asked the winery to make a mixed case of my six favourites and deliver them to readers anywhere in Ontario — shipping waived — and they kindly obliged. Some bottles are winery-only and others are listed at the LCBO as well. But they’re all deliciously good value for money.
So, for $86.20, you can order a mixed six-pack of the wines — one bottle of each, tax and deposit included. Here’s what’s inside:
One of the best of the bunch is the 2017 Pelee Island Pinot Noir, VQA Ontario (LCBO 135939, winery, $14.95), certain to appeal to those with a penchant for elegant, refreshing reds. Each sip swirls with aromas and flavours of ripe raspberry, dried cranberry, salt and white pepper — all lit by lipsmacking acidity. Drinks like a wine worth more than the price would suggest. Score: 94
Pair this Pinot Noir with pork or poultry or mushroom dishes. Pan-fried pork chops with mashed potatoes and green beans is an easy option. But it’s also a classic match for roast turkey with gravy or baked chicken with a pile of french fries.
Also tucked inside is the 2018 Pelee Island Cabernet Franc, VQA Ontario (LCBO 433714, winery, $13.45). This lean, lively red teems with a pretty perfume of ripe red berries laced with red bell pepper followed by a juicy crush of cherryraspberry that tastes lifted and pure. A touch of black earth midpalate and a subtly chalky texture on the finish adds interest. Smart buy. Score: 91
Pour this easy-drinking wine with sausages — either sliced as charcuterie, scattered on a pizza, or grilled on the barbecue. Its refreshing nature works beautifully with the rich, salty, umami-packed bite of sausage.
The third red in the case is the slightly more premium 2017 Pelee Island JS Hamilton Red, VQA South Islands (winery only $18.95) — a bold blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Petit Verdot and Malbec that over-delivers for the money. First it unfurls with aromas and flavours of dark plum, cassis Christmas cake, cigar box, dark chocolate and dried herbs. Then, it tapers to a long finish of charcoal and cherry cola. Just a delicious wine at a bargain price. Score: 93
Pour the JS Hamilton Red with steak frites, braised short rib or, if you’re vegetarian, a mushroom risotto with a heap of Parmesan grated on top.
Last week, I recommended the NV Pelee Island Bella Sparkling Pinot Noir, VQA Ontario (LCBO 11597, winery, $18.95), scoring it 94. So, I included a bottle of that label in the mix. It’s a glorious, dry bubbly that shines pale coral. The nose is coy and restrained with suggestions of red berries. And the brisk attack of pure vinosity is nuanced with fresh bread, strawberry and lemon curd, as well as a touch of cool minerality. Such a gem.
Bella makes an ideal aperitif or afternoon cocktail. But my favourite way to enjoy it is with smoked salmon mousse on croutes. To make it, beat 1/2 cup (125ml) of whipping cream for about eight minutes until firm peaks form. Then, in a food processor, whiz about 175g of smoked salmon, 225g of cream cheese and the juice of half a lemon until the mixture is smooth. Fold the salmon and cheese mixture into the cream just until combined. Scrape the whole lot into a pretty dish. Cover with plastic wrap and chill it for a couple hours. Have it with crackers or croutes and a glass of Bella and marvel at your cooking prowess. The NV Pelee Island Lola Pinot Grigio (LCBO 10485, winery, $14.95) lets you get your cocktail on. It’s fine on its own — really quite neutral tasting with a hint of lemon and lime — but it makes a fabulous white wine spritzer. The fruit is clean, the structure is well-balanced and acidity high and mouth-watering. Just pour a half a glass on the rocks and top it up with sparkling or soda water. If you have a lemon or lime around, add a wedge or a twist. Score: 89
And for those times you just feel like kicking back with a cold one straight out of the ice, open the NV Pelee Island Hopping Apple. It looks like a 375mL bottle of cider. But it’s actually sparkling fruit wine made from apples and hops (winery only $4.85/375mL). Pelee Island makes this smart sipper by pressing locally sourced McIntosh and Braeburn apples, fermenting the juice and then refermenting it in closed tanks to create and capture a bit of effervescence. Then it undergoes a “wet soak” with aromatic hops. The result is a delicious, dry beverage with seven per cent alcohol and 100 per cent refreshment. Score: 94
Hopping Apple is fabulous with burgers and fries, nachos and cheese, or any other easy finger food for a casual night of nosh. Netflix optional.